Small Island Fetish Part Three

 Day 4

We woke up to a nicer Day 4 than Day 3 with some sun peeking its way through the clouds. We are seeing the east end of Sao Miguel today with a focus on the steamier parts of the island. Wink, wink, nudge, nudge. 

I am once again using the advertised itinerary from Pure Azores. Please enjoy. 

Explore the best of eastern São Miguel on a relaxed small-group van tour, combining scenic coastal drives, volcanic landscapes, and lush nature. Experience the geothermal wonders of Furnas, enjoy a traditional local lunch included in the tour, discover waterfalls and viewpoints, and admire the dramatic scenery of the Nordeste region.

After departing from Ponta Delgada, we begin our journey through the eastern part of the island, following the scenic south coast. Along the way, we pass several beaches and the historic town of Vila Franca do Campo 

before stopping at Nossa Senhora da Paz, a charming hilltop chapel offering panoramic views over the town, the Atlantic Ocean,

and the iconic volcanic islet just offshore.

We did not visit the island as they close access to it in the winter to protect it from over use. Sadly over use is a problem around the world. 

We then continue to Furnas, where you’ll experience one of São Miguel’s most remarkable geothermal landscapes. 

The stinky smell of sulphur filled the air with a sinus cleaning strength. 

Stroll among steaming fumaroles and bubbling mud pools, sample naturally carbonated mineral waters, feel the temperature of different hot springs,

 and even soak your feet in one of them.

Hot, hot, hot!!!!

Alternatively, you may choose to spend your time in Furnas relaxing in the iron-rich thermal pools of Terra Nostra Park (entrance fee not included).

We opted not spend our time at Terra Nostra Park, 

Photo: Tripadvisor/ Terra Nostra Park 

but to continue to explore the free areas of Furnas. We came across a local distillery offering samples of their tangerine liqueur made with locally grown fruit. I would have bought a bottle  but already had a bottle of pineapple liqueur back at the hotel.  I did buy a couple of sampler bottles that did not make the trip home as well. 

We stop at a local restaurant for lunch, included in the tour, where you’ll enjoy the traditional Azorean cozido, 

Three different kinds of meat, well steamed seasonal vegetables and a tangy sulphury seasoning. 

slow-cooked underground using volcanic heat. The meal includes a drink, dessert, and coffee. Vegetarian and other non-meat options are available upon request.

Todays lunch came out of one of those crater like holes you see in the picture. Up to 15 hours of cook time. 

After lunch, we ascend to the Furnas Volcano caldera, stopping at some of the island’s most impressive viewpoints, 

with sweeping views over Furnas Lake, the valley below, and the mountains of eastern São Miguel.

The landscape then changes dramatically as we visit Ribeira dos Caldeirões Natural Park, 

Our guide Daniel, had issues with inserting himself into our selfies. 

a lush area known for its waterfalls,

dense vegetation, 

and well-maintained walking trails. 

The tour continues through the Nordeste region, famous for its dramatic cliffs, 

with a stop at an old whale lookout 

offering stunning views over the rugged coastline, green pastures, and traditional villages.

We are looking east and it is 3,900 kilometres before you can touch the east coast of North America. . 

Our return to Ponta Delgada follows the scenic north coast, including a final stop at Miradouro de Santa Iria, one of São Miguel’s most breathtaking coastal viewpoints.

Another shout out to Pure Azores and Daniel for a wonderful day and the promised sunshine. 

Day 5

Our flight home from Sao Miguel did not depart till 1700 hours and with the short 10 minutes drive to the airport, it left us with plenty of time to finish the last few scenic spots in Ponto Delgada.  

With another fabulous free breakfast under our belt, we headed out to the Torre Sineira for the promised "best views" of Ponto Delgada. 

The Tower Sineira was built in 1724 and is one of the highest buildings in Ponto Delgada. It delivered on those promised views thanks to the sunny and cloudless day we were enjoying. 

The tower stands at 30 metres high and to get to those views required clambering up, 300 year old, well used cementitious steps. 

The gaps and missing chunks in the steps did not provide us with a lot of trust. 

During my research, I  discovered that the Azores are located in an active seismic zone. The Island experiences frequent quakes as they are located at the junction of 3 major tectonic plates. (North American, Eurasian and Nubian African)

Kind of wish I had not read that as we made our way up the 106 steps to the top of the tower. 

Thankfully no earthquakes today.  

And as promised. the views were worth it.

Although we did not waste any time getting back down those steps to solid ground.  

Thinking about it, in hindsight, those steps have been here for over 300 years and have survived thousands of earthquakes. Perhaps our fears were not warranted.

Next stop, the Igreja do Colegio dos Jesuitas, the Jesuit College of Ponto Delgada. 

The colleges first foundation stone was laid in 1592 and included a church and convent, the Santuario do Senhor Santo Cristos dos Milagres. Over the next few hundred years it was renovated and added to. 

What was to be a quick 30 minute visit had us exiting two hours later. The college, church and convent are now a very interesting museum.  

It was an Enclosed religious order which meant that the nuns were cloistered and had to separate themselves from the affairs of the external world. Hence the bars across the balcony that over looked the church as it was open to the public. There are also doors folded against the wall that would be used to close off the view during services and other public events . Visits by family or friends were carried out through curtained or screened booths found near the entrances. 

The order was a Contemplative one that priorized worship and prayer over economic, pastoral or outreach activities. .  

 

One last chore before we head to the airport. Back to the hotel for a late lunch and an icy cold gin and tonic made with a local gin (Rocha Negra ) from a distillery that is located near the hotel. This gin is made with only local botanicals and made one of the smoothest G&T's I have ever tasted. 

Despite some of the dodgy weather, our adventure to the Azores was wonderful. Will we come back. Probably not. Perhaps if we were younger with more time on our hands but still have to many other places to see and as life has let us know, so little time.