Chemainus- A Hamlet, Village or Town? You be the judge

 

In the dying days of March we headed for Vancouver Island and our annual spring horticultural expedition.  After several days of weeding and pruning, it has become our practice to plan a few extra days on the Island to explore someplace we have not yet visited.  We have been traveling to the Island for over 50 years to visit family but for many of those years we never left the confines of the greater Victoria area.  

Yes that is a palm and they can be grown on Vancouver Island. No coconuts though. 

A trip to Haida Gwaii 10 years ago had us taking a ferry across the Queen Charlotte Sound from Prince Rupert on the mainland to Port Hardy located on the very north end of Vancouver Island. We took a couple of days to travel to Victoria and came to realize that the Island had a lot more to offer then just the GVA. 

Enjoying dinner, wine and fire on a beach near Campbell River. 

This adventure revolved around the small hamlet, village, town of Chemainus.  This got me thinking (something I do on occasion) about what  pronoun, whoops sorry common noun I should be using for Chemainus. My English teacher kicking in.

 

Definitions 

Hamlet- A small, informal settlement, often with just a small collection of homes. Generally lacks a church or has significant local services. 

Village- A residential community that is larger than a hamlet. Features include a church, school, shop or pub. Quite often it served as a once-farming community. 

Town- An urbanized area, larger than a village and acts as the commercial or administrative centre for the area. It will have a dense population, fixed administrative boundaries, town halls, parks, diverse shops and specialized services.

Chemainus is located just off the TransCanada Highway, 80 kilometres north of Victoria with a population of 4,000 souls.  We have probably driven by it dozens of times over the years without stopping. What drew me there was a stroke of luck. While looking at some hiking trails on Thetis Island I discovered Chemainus as it is the terminus for the ferry that services Thetis Island.

 

A little more research on Chemainus and I discovered the Chemainus Theatre Festival and they were producing the musical Godspell and it was playing during the time we were planning to be on the Island. Kismet, what 70 year old doesn’t like a 70’s musical about Jesus. The history of the Festival is quite interesting so I have attached a link below with more information it and the beautiful theatre that was built to house it. 

https://chemainustheatrefestival.ca/about/history/       

Godspell was the cake but the icing was the discovery of the Hand of Man museum in the small village of Maple Bay. We would be driving by it on our way to Chemainus and it was recommended that we really should drop in. Now, over the years we have wandered into a few private roadside museums and found them mostly underwhelming so the bar was set low. 

Our half hour visit became and an overwhelming 90 minutes and we did not see everything as we had to be in Chemainus for the Godspell matinee. See link below.

https://handofmanmuseum.com/

 

 Nonie was more buffaloed then overwhelmed by all the displays but managed to keep it together 

These were the activities that filled our adventure’s first day. We were booked for two nights into a very nice VRBO, a few blocks from the Theatre and will spend tomorrow exploring the area. 

Day two was planned to be more active with three hikes and some wandering around Chemainus. Stocking Creek Park was to be our first adventure and the main attraction was the waterfall. Vancouver Island is littered with waterfalls that come in all sizes from small to humongous. Stocking Creek Falls would probably fall into the small and cute category. Luckily there had been some rain in the last few days and the falls were flush with water.   

A lovely walk around Chemainus Lake loop trail was next on the agenda.  The lake is stocked annually  with rainbow trout. A fishing dock has been built that will get the fishermen out beyond the reeds that surround the edge of the lake. We enjoyed lunch while watching two young teens casting their lines out in to the lake.  I provided some sage advice on what they should be using from their tackle boxes but despite trout leaping out of the water everywhere, my recommendations for lures were ignored by the hungry trout.  

 

The last hike of the day was the one I was most looking forward to. The Hermits Trail is located in Askew Park which is located in the middle of Chemainus. The Hermits trail is just a small part of the Parks eight kilometres of mixed condition trials. In addition the West Coast trail skirts the edge of the park where you will find the start of the Hermits Trail. The trail head is not well marked but is roughly located on Google Maps. It was well worth the effort to find it.

 

Hermit’s Trail-   

Charlie Abbot came to Chemainus sometime in the 1970’s and wandered into the forest surrounding the town where he lived until the time of his death in 1989 aged 87 years. Under the the maples and firs of the forest Charlie made a garden covering many acres. 

Although old and  bent with years, he moved rocks and slabs of stone of all sizes, planted wild flowers,

 made pathways and steps, 

creating a little paradise of tranquility for all to share. 

In 1988,  year before his death, Charlie whom all knew as the Hermit was honoured by the Pacific Rim Artisans Village who guaranteed him official sanctuary and made him the first resident of the Artisan Village. 

Chemainus. Com

The idea for the  Artisan Village came about in 1990 with a plan to create a 50 acre live/work commune for artists in Chemainus. Sadly the commune failed to materialize due to lack of funding, complex permitting issues and lack of local buy-in due to its large scale and unconventional, tourist driven ideals. Can you say hippy haven. The grand entrance, 38 feet high and 60 feet wide is all that is left of this out of the box scheme. Thinking about it, I am feeling very confident that if it came up today, there would be a definite buy-in from the citizens of Chemainus.

We ended the day with a wander through the Chemainus’s old downtown and port area. My camera battery died so I have borrowed a picture. The town was incorporated in 1858 and built to service the lumber mills that spouted up in the area. The port was one of the first ports in the Pacific Northwest, shipping lumber to the world and later paper from nearby pulp mills. Sadly the pulp mills have permanently closed down and the lumber mill was temporarily shut down in 2025 due to low demand and tariffs. There is a fear that it may never reopen. 

 Photo: Chemainus.com

Based on all of the above I believe we have answered the question of what common noun can be used for Chemainus. It is definitely a town. Will we revisit Chemainus? I think so but it will probably depend on what is showing at the Chemainus Theatre Festival. I  will also be bringing my fishing pole and different fishing lures. 

Small Island Fetish Part Three

 Day 4

We woke up to a nicer Day 4 than Day 3 with some sun peeking its way through the clouds. We are seeing the east end of Sao Miguel today with a focus on the steamier parts of the island. Wink, wink, nudge, nudge. 

I am once again using the advertised itinerary from Pure Azores. Please enjoy. 

Explore the best of eastern São Miguel on a relaxed small-group van tour, combining scenic coastal drives, volcanic landscapes, and lush nature. Experience the geothermal wonders of Furnas, enjoy a traditional local lunch included in the tour, discover waterfalls and viewpoints, and admire the dramatic scenery of the Nordeste region.

After departing from Ponta Delgada, we begin our journey through the eastern part of the island, following the scenic south coast. Along the way, we pass several beaches and the historic town of Vila Franca do Campo 

before stopping at Nossa Senhora da Paz, a charming hilltop chapel offering panoramic views over the town, the Atlantic Ocean,

and the iconic volcanic islet just offshore.

We did not visit the island as they close access to it in the winter to protect it from over use. Sadly over use is a problem around the world. 

We then continue to Furnas, where you’ll experience one of São Miguel’s most remarkable geothermal landscapes. 

The stinky smell of sulphur filled the air with a sinus cleaning strength. 

Stroll among steaming fumaroles and bubbling mud pools, sample naturally carbonated mineral waters, feel the temperature of different hot springs,

 and even soak your feet in one of them.

Hot, hot, hot!!!!

Alternatively, you may choose to spend your time in Furnas relaxing in the iron-rich thermal pools of Terra Nostra Park (entrance fee not included).

We opted not spend our time at Terra Nostra Park, 

Photo: Tripadvisor/ Terra Nostra Park 

but to continue to explore the free areas of Furnas. We came across a local distillery offering samples of their tangerine liqueur made with locally grown fruit. I would have bought a bottle  but already had a bottle of pineapple liqueur back at the hotel.  I did buy a couple of sampler bottles that did not make the trip home as well. 

We stop at a local restaurant for lunch, included in the tour, where you’ll enjoy the traditional Azorean cozido, 

Three different kinds of meat, well steamed seasonal vegetables and a tangy sulphury seasoning. 

slow-cooked underground using volcanic heat. The meal includes a drink, dessert, and coffee. Vegetarian and other non-meat options are available upon request.

Todays lunch came out of one of those crater like holes you see in the picture. Up to 15 hours of cook time. 

After lunch, we ascend to the Furnas Volcano caldera, stopping at some of the island’s most impressive viewpoints, 

with sweeping views over Furnas Lake, the valley below, and the mountains of eastern São Miguel.

The landscape then changes dramatically as we visit Ribeira dos Caldeirões Natural Park, 

Our guide Daniel, had issues with inserting himself into our selfies. 

a lush area known for its waterfalls,

dense vegetation, 

and well-maintained walking trails. 

The tour continues through the Nordeste region, famous for its dramatic cliffs, 

with a stop at an old whale lookout 

offering stunning views over the rugged coastline, green pastures, and traditional villages.

We are looking east and it is 3,900 kilometres before you can touch the east coast of North America. . 

Our return to Ponta Delgada follows the scenic north coast, including a final stop at Miradouro de Santa Iria, one of São Miguel’s most breathtaking coastal viewpoints.

Another shout out to Pure Azores and Daniel for a wonderful day and the promised sunshine. 

Day 5

Our flight home from Sao Miguel did not depart till 1700 hours and with the short 10 minutes drive to the airport, it left us with plenty of time to finish the last few scenic spots in Ponto Delgada.  

With another fabulous free breakfast under our belt, we headed out to the Torre Sineira for the promised "best views" of Ponto Delgada. 

The Tower Sineira was built in 1724 and is one of the highest buildings in Ponto Delgada. It delivered on those promised views thanks to the sunny and cloudless day we were enjoying. 

The tower stands at 30 metres high and to get to those views required clambering up, 300 year old, well used cementitious steps. 

The gaps and missing chunks in the steps did not provide us with a lot of trust. 

During my research, I  discovered that the Azores are located in an active seismic zone. The Island experiences frequent quakes as they are located at the junction of 3 major tectonic plates. (North American, Eurasian and Nubian African)

Kind of wish I had not read that as we made our way up the 106 steps to the top of the tower. 

Thankfully no earthquakes today.  

And as promised. the views were worth it.

Although we did not waste any time getting back down those steps to solid ground.  

Thinking about it, in hindsight, those steps have been here for over 300 years and have survived thousands of earthquakes. Perhaps our fears were not warranted.

Next stop, the Igreja do Colegio dos Jesuitas, the Jesuit College of Ponto Delgada. 

The colleges first foundation stone was laid in 1592 and included a church and convent, the Santuario do Senhor Santo Cristos dos Milagres. Over the next few hundred years it was renovated and added to. 

What was to be a quick 30 minute visit had us exiting two hours later. The college, church and convent are now a very interesting museum.  

It was an Enclosed religious order which meant that the nuns were cloistered and had to separate themselves from the affairs of the external world. Hence the bars across the balcony that over looked the church as it was open to the public. There are also doors folded against the wall that would be used to close off the view during services and other public events . Visits by family or friends were carried out through curtained or screened booths found near the entrances. 

The order was a Contemplative one that priorized worship and prayer over economic, pastoral or outreach activities. .  

 

One last chore before we head to the airport. Back to the hotel for a late lunch and an icy cold gin and tonic made with a local gin (Rocha Negra ) from a distillery that is located near the hotel. This gin is made with only local botanicals and made one of the smoothest G&T's I have ever tasted. 

Despite some of the dodgy weather, our adventure to the Azores was wonderful. Will we come back. Probably not. Perhaps if we were younger with more time on our hands but still have to many other places to see and as life has let us know, so little time.