AnotherTrip To a Small Volcanic Island (500 kilometres long x 300 kilometres wide)

This trip came about due to a promise made over two years ago while I was experiencing a full eclipse of the sun.  It was on April 8, 2024 and I was watching a full solar eclipse from my home in Penticton and texting my granddaughter on the other side of Canada while she watched it.  It was not my first full eclipse. My first was in the early 60’s. I was around 10 or 11 years old and living in Northern Ontario. Then I watched the eclipse unfold through chunks of glass that we had covered in soot.  

As I started to write this, I decided to ask AI (I refuse to call it Super) if viewing the eclipse through sooty glass was a good idea and did I waste my money on those expensive cardboard glasses.I have attached AI’s response to my query below. There were quite number of other reasons that smoky glass was not a good idea but listing them would take up the entire blog. So please find and review the use of sooty glass before you plan to watch any eclipses. Hmmm! Maybe it’s why I have to wear glasses today. 

  

Why Soot-Covered Glass is Unsafe-   Invisible Radiation Passes Through: Soot may block visible light (making the sun look dim enough to stare at), but it fails to filter harmful ultraviolet (UV) and infrared (IR) radiation. [1]

So caught up in the excitement I suggested to my granddaughter that we plan to travel to where we could visit and witness the next full solar eclipse.  She was all in. A little research and I found an eclipse occurring on August 12 / 2026. and was going to be visible in Iceland.

Having traveled to Iceland, I was aware that it could be an expensive place but not how much higher the costs would be due to the eclipse tourism factor. There is a large cohort of people out there that search out and travel to sites around the world where full solar eclipses can be seen and I discovered Iceland was on the Must Do List for many of them.  A year out and the best accommodations that I could afford to book were near the town of Selfoss about 60 kilometres from Reykjavik. The few hotel rooms left in Reykjavik were in the $600 to $1,000 range per night. 

Tourism Iceland was expecting an estimated 75,000 visitors along with an additional 50,000 cruise ship visitors coming to  the island for the event. So what did that mean for us. Well, as previously written not many empty rooms at the inn and all the tourists sights we visited were very busy especially the airport. We were booked to depart the day after the eclipse. Seemed so was every eclipse tourist on the island. It was busiest that I have ever seen an airport and I've flown during Christmas break. I have a attached a link to an Iceland Review article on the crowding that occurred. 

https://www.icelandreview.com/news/eclipse-exodus-long-queues-return-at-keflavik-airport/?srsltid=AYCX9vKW1iabrAM-O3BObD1RKoKwavXdbQsCniK6V1c7x3aidFflY9CT

Day One had us arriving into Keflavik at 0600 hrs. It is a six hour flight from Toronto so not a lot of time other than to grab a long nap. Car rented, we were on the road by 1000 hrs looking for a place to get some breakfast as there was nothing available in the main air terminal. The small town of Keflavik has six restaurants and none of them were open for breakfast so we stopped at the local gas station for some snacks that would get us to our next stop, the Blue Lagoon. The Lagoon is about an hour away and they  have a restaurant that would be open according to AI.

We made one stop before the Blue Lagoon. A spot were you could access the remains of the original paved asphalt road to the Lagoon that had been partially buried by the eruption of the Sundnjkur volcano in 2024/25. The lava flow threatened the Lagoon, a power plant and the town of Grindavik only a few kilometres away. 

 

 

 

 

We had run into a similar situation while we were hitchhiking over a lava field from the Napau volcano on the big island of Hawaii in 2006. 

 

 

 

What I expected to be a 10 minute stop turned into an hour. Mother Nature had its hooks into us already.  The kids had fun exploring lava for the first time. They also discovered how sharp fresh lava can feel when you stumble on it.

    

 

 

The Blue Lagoon is an iconic tourist site in Iceland. If you Google "things to do in Iceland", it is usually found on the first page. I have attached an excerpt from my blog of September 2009, our first visit to Iceland. It says everything you need to know about the Blue Lagoon. Seems no one read my blog as the place was packed.   

   

The next day before boarding the plane and our return to Canada, we spent our last few hours in Iceland at the Blue Lagoon where we spent a few hours lounging in a huge hot pool with the most dazzling colour of blue. It seemed like a nice way to relax before the long trip home. The lagoon is located near the ocean and the heated water along with the salt leaching in from the nearby sea water creates a very pale pastel blue colour in the water. What they failed to mention in the brochure is that the lagoon is really a retaining pond for the hot water effluent that is discharged from the local power plant. Better we did not know as I developed a mild itchy rash lasting for the entire flight.

Looking over the Lagoon's restaurant menu, we experienced the first of our many incidents of sticker shock. I have listed some of the cheapest prices from their menu. Not surprisingly, we decided to skip lunch and continue on to the town of Selfoss where at this time there was no volcanic activity in the area. Hopefully the town was still open for business. When I talked to Icelanders about their volcanoes and eruptions, I found their demeanor around volcanic activity very blase, like it happened every day. I was to discover that it did happen everyday. Iceland experiences up to 26,000 earthquakes a year. The have over 30 active volcanoes and experience an eruption every 4 to 5 years. 

 Al Carte Menu Prices-  Mushroom soup- $44 CAD, Fish of the Day- $84 CAD

On our very first trip to Iceland I remember paying around $70 for both Nonie and I. It included a shuttle bus from Reykjavik to the Blue Lagoon and then on to the airport in time for our flight home. Towel rental and soap were extra. Things have definitely gotten a little more expensive but towel rentals and soap are now included.

Entrance to the Lagoon- $215 CAD/person  

For those of us who are unable to carry the financial burden of the entrance fee there is a free walking trail that allows you see the back side of the Lagoon. No bathing allowed here. The water is stagnant over flow from the power plant. It is blue but the temperature of the water is tepid at best. There is branch of the trail that would have allowed us to get a peek into the main public pool but has been closed for several years supposedly for maintenance. I think is was closed so that those of us financially challenged would not impinge on the privacy of those who could afford the faux hot springs.  

What the trail did provide was a wonderful view of the power plant that has been artfully hidden from those using the  main pool. I suppose the two hundred and fifteen bucks has to buy you something.   

You can find several different sites around the island that offer less expensive hot springs although none with  blue water. There are even a few free ones but be prepared for a hike to reach them and you will find they can be very busy in the summer months.

   

 

The town of Grindavik is only a few kilometers away from the Blue Lagoon. During the eruption of 2024/25 the entire town was evacuated due to the gases, earthquakes and molten lava that were making their way to the town. They had just started resettling the inhabitants a few weeks before our arrival. 

 Photo: APNews.com

 

To save the Blue Lagoon, power plant and Grindavik, miles of high walls of crushed lava were constructed to divert the lava away. We arrived in Grindavik only to find none of the restaurants were yet opened and the only gas station was closed. We found a small convenience store that was just beginning to restock its shelves for the returning inhabitants. They took pity on us and sold us some snacks.

 Photo: IcelandReview.com

 

 

So it was on to the town of Selfoss that was going to be our go to base for shopping. There were no threatening volcanoes nearby so everything was open. Selfoss is the second largest city in Iceland and comes with 3 major grocery stores so lots of choices. Our rental villa was only 10 kilometres away. To keep down costs, the plan was to pack picnic lunches each day and cook most of our evening meals at the villa. We finally found our lunch at a local marketplace that had a number of fast food outlets. Once again sticker shock was in full force in the market restaurants and the grocery store

 Rostiburger and bacon and fries (cheapest one on the menu)-  $38 CAD

Romano Carbonara (pasta) - $35 CAD

Chicken- $42 CAD / kilo

Loaf of Bread (300-500 grams) - $3.50 – $5.75

Iceland is known/famous for its tasty street dogs.  The wieners are made with a distinct blend of lamb, pork and beef. Topped with a local mustard, ketchup and a mayonnaise of some kind. They can be found  every where. Average cost according to AI is $9.50 to $11.00 CAD. I got mine at a stand in one of the tourist stops and paid almost $14.00 CAD. I am giving it a 8 of 10 but I was really hungry and that may have skewed  my rating somewhat. 

 

Their vision of our villa (their description, not mine) and provided by their web site was not entirely met. It was old, very small and in need of some love. We did not spend a lot of time there so it was livable. The hot tub out on the patio was a definite winner and its location made it a great base for the next three days so I give it a 7out of 10. 

 

 

Iceland is a volcanic island with all the attributes. The volcanoes ages spans from 11,000 years for the active ones and up to 16,000,000 years for the older ones. . No active volcanoes occurred while we were there. They have  monitoring systems all over island keeping an eye on the active ones. While we were there the volcano that caused the evacuation of the Blue Lagoon and Grindavik in 2024 was indicating below the caldera a magma pressure exceeding the pressures that existed when the volcano first erupted in 2024. Taking our direction from the locals we remained pretty blase. I really must look up the definition of blase". The volcano was only 80 kilometres from our villa and near the highway to the airport!

Chemainus- A Hamlet, Village or Town? You be the judge

 

In the dying days of March we headed for Vancouver Island and our annual spring horticultural expedition.  After several days of weeding and pruning, it has become our practice to plan a few extra days on the Island to explore someplace we have not yet visited.  We have been traveling to the Island for over 50 years to visit family but for many of those years we never left the confines of the greater Victoria area.  

Yes that is a palm and they can be grown on Vancouver Island. No coconuts though. 

A trip to Haida Gwaii 10 years ago had us taking a ferry across the Queen Charlotte Sound from Prince Rupert on the mainland to Port Hardy located on the very north end of Vancouver Island. We took a couple of days to travel to Victoria and came to realize that the Island had a lot more to offer then just the GVA. 

Enjoying dinner, wine and fire on a beach near Campbell River. 

This adventure revolved around the small hamlet, village, town of Chemainus.  This got me thinking (something I do on occasion) about what  pronoun, whoops sorry common noun I should be using for Chemainus. My English teacher kicking in.

 

Definitions 

Hamlet- A small, informal settlement, often with just a small collection of homes. Generally lacks a church or has significant local services. 

Village- A residential community that is larger than a hamlet. Features include a church, school, shop or pub. Quite often it served as a once-farming community. 

Town- An urbanized area, larger than a village and acts as the commercial or administrative centre for the area. It will have a dense population, fixed administrative boundaries, town halls, parks, diverse shops and specialized services.

Chemainus is located just off the TransCanada Highway, 80 kilometres north of Victoria with a population of 4,000 souls.  We have probably driven by it dozens of times over the years without stopping. What drew me there was a stroke of luck. While looking at some hiking trails on Thetis Island I discovered Chemainus as it is the terminus for the ferry that services Thetis Island.

 

A little more research on Chemainus and I discovered the Chemainus Theatre Festival and they were producing the musical Godspell and it was playing during the time we were planning to be on the Island. Kismet, what 70 year old doesn’t like a 70’s musical about Jesus. The history of the Festival is quite interesting so I have attached a link below with more information it and the beautiful theatre that was built to house it. 

https://chemainustheatrefestival.ca/about/history/       

Godspell was the cake but the icing was the discovery of the Hand of Man museum in the small village of Maple Bay. We would be driving by it on our way to Chemainus and it was recommended that we really should drop in. Now, over the years we have wandered into a few private roadside museums and found them mostly underwhelming so the bar was set low. 

Our half hour visit became and an overwhelming 90 minutes and we did not see everything as we had to be in Chemainus for the Godspell matinee. See link below.

https://handofmanmuseum.com/

 

 Nonie was more buffaloed then overwhelmed by all the displays but managed to keep it together 

These were the activities that filled our adventure’s first day. We were booked for two nights into a very nice VRBO, a few blocks from the Theatre and will spend tomorrow exploring the area. 

Day two was planned to be more active with three hikes and some wandering around Chemainus. Stocking Creek Park was to be our first adventure and the main attraction was the waterfall. Vancouver Island is littered with waterfalls that come in all sizes from small to humongous. Stocking Creek Falls would probably fall into the small and cute category. Luckily there had been some rain in the last few days and the falls were flush with water.   

A lovely walk around Chemainus Lake loop trail was next on the agenda.  The lake is stocked annually  with rainbow trout. A fishing dock has been built that will get the fishermen out beyond the reeds that surround the edge of the lake. We enjoyed lunch while watching two young teens casting their lines out in to the lake.  I provided some sage advice on what they should be using from their tackle boxes but despite trout leaping out of the water everywhere, my recommendations for lures were ignored by the hungry trout.  

 

The last hike of the day was the one I was most looking forward to. The Hermits Trail is located in Askew Park which is located in the middle of Chemainus. The Hermits trail is just a small part of the Parks eight kilometres of mixed condition trials. In addition the West Coast trail skirts the edge of the park where you will find the start of the Hermits Trail. The trail head is not well marked but is roughly located on Google Maps. It was well worth the effort to find it.

 

Hermit’s Trail-   

Charlie Abbot came to Chemainus sometime in the 1970’s and wandered into the forest surrounding the town where he lived until the time of his death in 1989 aged 87 years. Under the the maples and firs of the forest Charlie made a garden covering many acres. 

Although old and  bent with years, he moved rocks and slabs of stone of all sizes, planted wild flowers,

 made pathways and steps, 

creating a little paradise of tranquility for all to share. 

In 1988,  year before his death, Charlie whom all knew as the Hermit was honoured by the Pacific Rim Artisans Village who guaranteed him official sanctuary and made him the first resident of the Artisan Village. 

Chemainus. Com

The idea for the  Artisan Village came about in 1990 with a plan to create a 50 acre live/work commune for artists in Chemainus. Sadly the commune failed to materialize due to lack of funding, complex permitting issues and lack of local buy-in due to its large scale and unconventional, tourist driven ideals. Can you say hippy haven. The grand entrance, 38 feet high and 60 feet wide is all that is left of this out of the box scheme. Thinking about it, I am feeling very confident that if it came up today, there would be a definite buy-in from the citizens of Chemainus.

We ended the day with a wander through the Chemainus’s old downtown and port area. My camera battery died so I have borrowed a picture. The town was incorporated in 1858 and built to service the lumber mills that spouted up in the area. The port was one of the first ports in the Pacific Northwest, shipping lumber to the world and later paper from nearby pulp mills. Sadly the pulp mills have permanently closed down and the lumber mill was temporarily shut down in 2025 due to low demand and tariffs. There is a fear that it may never reopen. 

 Photo: Chemainus.com

Based on all of the above I believe we have answered the question of what common noun can be used for Chemainus. It is definitely a town. Will we revisit Chemainus? I think so but it will probably depend on what is showing at the Chemainus Theatre Festival. I  will also be bringing my fishing pole and different fishing lures. 

Small Island Fetish Part Three

 Day 4

We woke up to a nicer Day 4 than Day 3 with some sun peeking its way through the clouds. We are seeing the east end of Sao Miguel today with a focus on the steamier parts of the island. Wink, wink, nudge, nudge. 

I am once again using the advertised itinerary from Pure Azores. Please enjoy. 

Explore the best of eastern São Miguel on a relaxed small-group van tour, combining scenic coastal drives, volcanic landscapes, and lush nature. Experience the geothermal wonders of Furnas, enjoy a traditional local lunch included in the tour, discover waterfalls and viewpoints, and admire the dramatic scenery of the Nordeste region.

After departing from Ponta Delgada, we begin our journey through the eastern part of the island, following the scenic south coast. Along the way, we pass several beaches and the historic town of Vila Franca do Campo 

before stopping at Nossa Senhora da Paz, a charming hilltop chapel offering panoramic views over the town, the Atlantic Ocean,

and the iconic volcanic islet just offshore.

We did not visit the island as they close access to it in the winter to protect it from over use. Sadly over use is a problem around the world. 

We then continue to Furnas, where you’ll experience one of São Miguel’s most remarkable geothermal landscapes. 

The stinky smell of sulphur filled the air with a sinus cleaning strength. 

Stroll among steaming fumaroles and bubbling mud pools, sample naturally carbonated mineral waters, feel the temperature of different hot springs,

 and even soak your feet in one of them.

Hot, hot, hot!!!!

Alternatively, you may choose to spend your time in Furnas relaxing in the iron-rich thermal pools of Terra Nostra Park (entrance fee not included).

We opted not spend our time at Terra Nostra Park, 

Photo: Tripadvisor/ Terra Nostra Park 

but to continue to explore the free areas of Furnas. We came across a local distillery offering samples of their tangerine liqueur made with locally grown fruit. I would have bought a bottle  but already had a bottle of pineapple liqueur back at the hotel.  I did buy a couple of sampler bottles that did not make the trip home as well. 

We stop at a local restaurant for lunch, included in the tour, where you’ll enjoy the traditional Azorean cozido, 

Three different kinds of meat, well steamed seasonal vegetables and a tangy sulphury seasoning. 

slow-cooked underground using volcanic heat. The meal includes a drink, dessert, and coffee. Vegetarian and other non-meat options are available upon request.

Todays lunch came out of one of those crater like holes you see in the picture. Up to 15 hours of cook time. 

After lunch, we ascend to the Furnas Volcano caldera, stopping at some of the island’s most impressive viewpoints, 

with sweeping views over Furnas Lake, the valley below, and the mountains of eastern São Miguel.

The landscape then changes dramatically as we visit Ribeira dos Caldeirões Natural Park, 

Our guide Daniel, had issues with inserting himself into our selfies. 

a lush area known for its waterfalls,

dense vegetation, 

and well-maintained walking trails. 

The tour continues through the Nordeste region, famous for its dramatic cliffs, 

with a stop at an old whale lookout 

offering stunning views over the rugged coastline, green pastures, and traditional villages.

We are looking east and it is 3,900 kilometres before you can touch the east coast of North America. . 

Our return to Ponta Delgada follows the scenic north coast, including a final stop at Miradouro de Santa Iria, one of São Miguel’s most breathtaking coastal viewpoints.

Another shout out to Pure Azores and Daniel for a wonderful day and the promised sunshine. 

Day 5

Our flight home from Sao Miguel did not depart till 1700 hours and with the short 10 minutes drive to the airport, it left us with plenty of time to finish the last few scenic spots in Ponto Delgada.  

With another fabulous free breakfast under our belt, we headed out to the Torre Sineira for the promised "best views" of Ponto Delgada. 

The Tower Sineira was built in 1724 and is one of the highest buildings in Ponto Delgada. It delivered on those promised views thanks to the sunny and cloudless day we were enjoying. 

The tower stands at 30 metres high and to get to those views required clambering up, 300 year old, well used cementitious steps. 

The gaps and missing chunks in the steps did not provide us with a lot of trust. 

During my research, I  discovered that the Azores are located in an active seismic zone. The Island experiences frequent quakes as they are located at the junction of 3 major tectonic plates. (North American, Eurasian and Nubian African)

Kind of wish I had not read that as we made our way up the 106 steps to the top of the tower. 

Thankfully no earthquakes today.  

And as promised. the views were worth it.

Although we did not waste any time getting back down those steps to solid ground.  

Thinking about it, in hindsight, those steps have been here for over 300 years and have survived thousands of earthquakes. Perhaps our fears were not warranted.

Next stop, the Igreja do Colegio dos Jesuitas, the Jesuit College of Ponto Delgada. 

The colleges first foundation stone was laid in 1592 and included a church and convent, the Santuario do Senhor Santo Cristos dos Milagres. Over the next few hundred years it was renovated and added to. 

What was to be a quick 30 minute visit had us exiting two hours later. The college, church and convent are now a very interesting museum.  

It was an Enclosed religious order which meant that the nuns were cloistered and had to separate themselves from the affairs of the external world. Hence the bars across the balcony that over looked the church as it was open to the public. There are also doors folded against the wall that would be used to close off the view during services and other public events . Visits by family or friends were carried out through curtained or screened booths found near the entrances. 

The order was a Contemplative one that priorized worship and prayer over economic, pastoral or outreach activities. .  

 

One last chore before we head to the airport. Back to the hotel for a late lunch and an icy cold gin and tonic made with a local gin (Rocha Negra ) from a distillery that is located near the hotel. This gin is made with only local botanicals and made one of the smoothest G&T's I have ever tasted. 

Despite some of the dodgy weather, our adventure to the Azores was wonderful. Will we come back. Probably not. Perhaps if we were younger with more time on our hands but still have to many other places to see and as life has let us know, so little time.