What to Expect When Hiking in a Rainforest. Part 3

 

Can It Get Any Wetter?  We Hope So.

The western side of Vancouver Island has been one of those places where we continue to ask ourselves “should we come back”?  Have we seen and done everything that the area has to offer and the answer continues to be there is always more to sea and do. So once again we find ourselves traveling to the small town of Tofino that anchors the northern end of the Pacific Rim National Park.

We were joined by Keegan and Vicky who had made plans to spend the Christmas break surfing. The waves that can be found on the Pacific Rim Park beaches are some of Canada’s best. We joined them on New Year’s Day for the final week of Christmas break.  We too would be surfing the beaches; not with boards but with our feet.

Besides the waves the views are none too shabby, especially during the stormy winter months. When the summer tourists flee, the storm watching tourists arrive along with the surfers. We sensed some tension between the surfers and the storm watchers. Parking is limited for some of the favourite beaches and can be at a premium when the waves are gnarly. The place we rented was within easy walking distance of some of the best beaches.  

I was watching the weather closely as our departure date drew closer. Living in the Okanagan Valley, if you want to go anywhere, the trip will most likely involve a mountain road. While reasonably ho-hum in the warmer months, they can be downright  treacherous in winter. Sadly the danger is not due to the weather but the idiots who are driving way to fast for the conditions. The upside of the continuing drought conditions in the Okanagan we were  provided with a warm and snow free drive to the coast.  

Please note I am writing this a few weeks after our trip and the drought has broken. As I write the snow has been falling non-stop for 10 hours. 

But it seems the rain forest had other ideas as it had moved on from its Level 5 drought condition from our visit last fall. Three days before we were to leave for Tofino, it had been raining so hard that it caused a small avalanche closing Highway 4, the only route into Tofino.  Not an uncommon event for Highway 4.  The highway crews were awesome and had the highway open the next day.

Photo: cbc.ca

 To cover for any potential weather related delays we decided to head to Island a few days early spending a night in Abbottsford with family and two nights in Nanaimo before meeting the kids in Tofino on New Years Day.  Nanaimo is a medium sized city with a population of 90,000 and is located about a 140 kilometres north of Victoria. Getting there involves a two hour ferry ride from Vancouver Tsawwassen terminal landing at the Duke Point terminal on Vancouver Island  with a short ride to downtown Nanaimo.

The next day, New Years Day dawned sunny and warm. We spent it wandering the 5.6 K out and back trail that winds its way along Nanaimo’s waterfront. 

Our big excitement was watching families crabbing off a public walking pier. They would fill the crab baskets with their own secret recipe for attracting a crab, and then tossed the basket as far as they could out into the ocean. It seemed like it was only a few minutes before they were hauling in the basket with a crab in it. They would quickly measure the crab it to see if they could keep it or if it was too small, return it to the ocean. Most went back in.  

 

It is a 205 kilometre drive to Tofino from Nanaimo and with a late check in time in Tofino we took advantage of a late check out, the free breakfast and some grocery shopping and did not hit the road till after lunch. We did take some time to hike some of the Rogers Creek Trail that can be found just outside Port Alberni. The weather was mixed between light rain, heavy downpours and periods of no rain. 

Highway 4 is a notorious mountain road and can be a difficult drive especially in inclement weather as reflected by the recent avalanche four days before our departure for Tofino. What would be a two and a half hour drive on a normal highway is a 3 1/2 hour drive for Highway 4 and had us arriving at our rental for the next 4 nights just in time to check in. 

Photo: vancouverisawesome.com

Tomorrow's forecast was to be a mixed bag of clouds with occasional rain but we would not be deterred from our hiking plans. As previously stated “We won’t melt”, so fueling up with a warm bowl of porridge, loaded up with brown sugar we headed out for some unfinished business.  On a previous trip (see blog of  April 2023 ) we had hiked a major portion of the Wild Pacific Trail but left some unfinished sections. Today our plan was to finish what we started.

This hike would take us to the Ancient Cedars and Rocky Bluffs sections of the trail located just north of downtown Ucluelet. The Ancient Cedars portion introduces you to some old growth Sitka spruce, western Hemlock and two giant red cedars estimated at over 800 years with one having a base measuring more than 12 metres.

The Rocky Bluff section is hilly hence the name so lots of uppy downy but the uppy provided some great views of the Pacific with the huge waves it sent crashing into the cliffs and rocky surge channels found along the way.  The weather cooperated and we got the mostly cloudy portion of today’s forecast.

The plan for the afternoon was to explore Chesterman Beach one of the best beaches to surf and located just a 10 minute walk from our cabin. The beach comes in two parts, Chesterman South and North. Due to the shape of the beach and an island that sits in the bay and separating the two beaches; the waves can be completely different on either side.  

We started our walk from South Beach side. The waves were definitely chunder (surfer speak for unsurfable waves) and only a few kooks (beginners) were attempting to surf.  The island can be reached by foot during low tide so we walked out to the island only to find that it was private property and posted with very large “keep off” signage. Continuing on to North Beach we found most of the surfers there as the waves were cranking (good waves). The forecasted occasional rain was starting to become frequent rain so we headed home.

The next days forecast was for cloudy with periods of rain. In weather speak there is no difference between “occasional” and “periods” of rain, they both mean that there is an 80% chance of rain. The rain could last for five minutes or five hours. We woke to a cloudy and misty day.

We joined the kids and with our grandpuppy Soda went for a gambol on Chesterman beach where he could burn off a little energy chasing other dogs and seagulls. Back to our lodgings where we packed ourselves a lunch and headed to Tofino where we would find the trailhead for the Tonquin Trail; a 6 kilometre out and back trail that would give us access to three different beaches. As we arrived at the trail head the “periods” of rain had begun. 

Oh, Oh, trouble in Tofino. Due to some safety work on the trail we found part of it closed but some interneting and a short drive we found another trail head that would get us to Tonquin Beach and access to the trail for the other two beaches.  It was still raining as we headed out. Seems we were in for an extended period of rain. 

We arrived to Tonquin Beach fairly quickly where we had hoped to have lunch but it was still raining so decided to soldier on to the second beach, not surprisingly named Second Beach then continued on the next beach. Surprise, surprise aptly named Third Beach.

Still raining, we decided to head directly back to the parking lot and eat our late lunch in the car. Arriving back at Tonqin Beach the rain had let up a little so we decided to explore the beach little before heading back to the car. The tide was starting to rise but it still allowed us access to a sea cave we found further up the beach. We could get out of the rain so we enjoyed a quick lunch as the rising tide would not make the cave accessible much longer. 

Heading home we stopped in at the Common Loaf for a mug of hot chocolate and some of their locally famous baked goods. Highly recommend if you are in Tofino. 

The Rainforest gave us some respite the next day. The sun made an appearance so we headed to Cox Bay Beach for a hike and lunch on the beach. The beach was only an extra five minute walk from our accommodations. The waves were definitely chunder today but there were still some kooks giving it their best. Watching them provided some fun entertainment as we comfortably sat on a piece of driftwood and enjoyed some lunch. Put the fine in “fine dining”. 

 

Lunch over we headed in to Tofino to pick up wine for dinner then back to our cabin to meet up with the kids. We were going to baby-sit Soda while they went out for sunset surf at Chesterman Beach. 

We decided to join them as I had a new telescopic lens I gifted myself for Christmas and this was the perfect chance to try it out. As you can see from my pictures they did not turn out well. I was shooting directly into the sun and the camera did not like that.

While we waited on the beach the Rainforest made one last attempt to make sure we were well watered as we were hit by a short but heavy sun shower. 

Then it was back to the cabin for a hot tub and dinner.  A nice ending to our latest adventure.

 If you are wondering; yes we will be back.

 

Highway 4 did not disappoint as we headed home it was torrential rain as we left Tofino and then a blizzard and foggy conditions as we drove over the Port Alberni Summit.  No avalanches but it was always topmost on my mind till we reached Port Alberni. We decided to delay our return to Penticton by a day due to forecast of heavy snow on all the mountain passes.  We spent the night in Vancouver and enjoyed dinner with drinks  on Commercial Drive joined by Nonie’s sister who lives in the area and knows all the best places. Best of all, a snow free drive through the passes to Penticton, the next day.

 

What to Expect When Hiking in a Rainforest? Part 2

RAIN! What happens if there is too much rain. Nothing, we won’t melt.

Day 2 dawned nothing like Day 1. The weather man had mentioned that there was a chance of rain but we have a mantra that takes care of those occasions and have used it on a number of dampish hikes. 

“WE WON’T MELT”

See blog June 2020-  5% of 40 Days and 40 Nights

So with a warm breakfast of hot oatmeal and lots of brown sugar and some local coffee under our belts, we headed out for our first hike of the day, Botanical Beach and Botany Bay.

The Botanical Beach parking lot is the western terminus of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail, located at Kilometre 47. This parking lot provides access to nearby Botany Bay and Botanical Beach itself.

Botanical Beach affords visitors with access to uniquely rich tide pools and shoreline trails with fantastic geological features. The extensive variety of marine flora and fauna in this colourful intertidal zone includes red, purple and orange starfish and sea urchins, white gooseneck barnacles, blue mussels and green sea anemones and sea cucumbers. Coralline algae, periwinkles, chitons and sea stars can also be seen at Botanical Beach.

 BC Parks

The trail is a 2.5 km loop taking you first down to Botany Bay then along the coast to Botanical Beach. From Botany Bay the trail follows the coastline to Botanical Beach before returning to the parking lot.  We left our cabin with dark cumulonimbus clouds hanging over us looking like they contained a lot of water. It seemed like we were going to test our “We won’t melt” theory. It was going to be a rainy day.

Definition: rai’ny- (adjective) a period of time, or an area having a great deal of rainfall

 

As we drove to the parking lot for the trail head, it was starting to drizzle. 

Definition: driz’zle- (noun) light rain falling in fine drops

 

As we entered the trail to Botany Bay, it started spitting and kept it up for most of the walk. Thankfully the trail was wide and well maintained so we could skirt around the ever growing puddles.

Definition: spi’ting rain’- (verb) heavier sporadic rain drops, well spaced out 

As we arrived to Botany Bay it was also becoming quite misty. We managed to find some escape from the rain under trees where I dared to take out my camera without the danger of getting it soaked. 

Definition: mist’y- (verb) a cloud of water droplets suspended in the atmosphere at or near the earth’s surface.

 

As we left Botany Bay, it began to pour. The trail from Botany Bay to  Botanical Beach follows the coastline and was rocky and root filled, a combination best avoided when wet. 

Definition: pour’- (verb) flow rapidly in a steady stream

To take photos  at Botanical Beach, I made the risky decision to use my cell phone which I was almost sure was water resistant? Checking later, it was not. Phew!

Botanical Beach is best visited on a sunny day during a low tide of 1.2 metres. I planned this day around a low tide. I thought that the levels of low and high tides were always the same. Well I learned they were not. Today’s low tide at the time we arrived was not 1.2 metres but 2.2 metres so many of the tidal pools were still under water.

 

Exploring the tidal pools from the wet rocks was a slippery experience and with rain drops hitting the pools seeing any flora or fauna was near impossible. It was a quick visit. 

As we headed back the clouds opened up and the rain became torrential. Arriving at the car our rain proof clothing was no longer rain proof and we had soaked up a few extra pounds of water in them. But hey, we didn't melt. 

Definition: tor’en’tial- (adjective) abundant, aplenty, present in great quantity

Our original plan was to head to the nearby Mill Bay trail for a short hike to a protected gravel beach and enjoy some lunch while keeping our eyes out for passing whales. Instead it was back to the cabin which as luck would have it, had a clothes dryer and a warm shower. With a full stomach, dry clothes and a little sunshine, we headed out to do a more in depth exploration of the area around Port Renfrew. 

We spent the next few hours exploring a local beach that was covered with some of the largest bore trees that I had ever seen littering a beach. 

It was back to the cabin for supper and a wine infused game of Scrabble.

 

Go full circle on Southern Vancouver Island with the Pacific Marine Circle Route. A road with varied landscapes, stops and views, the loop is a popular trek amongst driving enthusiasts. The total drive clocks in at a total of 289 km or 179 miles. With the beach pull outs, broad ocean views and a leg that takes you past some of the most majestic old-growth forest on Vancouver Island, the Pacific Marine Circle Route ranks high amongst drivers. It’s also a thrilling drive—winding roads and steep hills will put your handling skills to the test!

Vancouverisland.travel  

Weather on Day 3 was a repeat of Day 2, perhaps a little less torrential and more drizzle. We have been following the Pacific Marine Circle Route which takes you from Victoria to Sooke, Port Renfrew, Lake Cowichan, Duncan and back to Victoria. 

Our planned first stop today was Avatar Grove. It is a majestic stand of old-growth red cedar. On July 2023, the site was closed to the public for safety and environmental reasons. Basically too many people were accessing the site, a problem that is being faced by numerous tourist sites around the world. If it is reopened, we will be back as it is definitely a reason for another trip. 

Instead we made do with the cute Fairy Lake Bonsai Tree. 

All was not lost though as we did manage to find the lesser known Harris Creek Sitka Spruce just a short walk off the road. It is advertised as being over 4 metres in diameter at the base and 80 metres tall. 

A quick wander through Lake Cowichan before a hike into Skutz Falls for lunch. Not a really a falls more like tall rapids but it was the cool name that attracted us. A little research and we found that the name was originally Skwets or Squitz which means "waterfall" in Halkomelem, the Cowichan dialect. 

Before heading back to Victoria, we finished the day taking the walking tour of the totems that can be found scattered around the city of Duncan. Well worth the stop. 

Photo: cvmuseum.ca/education/duncans-totems/

It is reported that British Columbia contains close to 25% of the world’s temperate rainforest.  Most of it is located it along its 25,725 kilometres of coastline.  Our experience this trip really highlighted it is not just logging that is putting the rainforest in jeopardy. Droughts are becoming a fact of our life. In 2020 while visiting  the Sunshine Coast (in the middle of a rainforest), the regional district had to turn off water supplies to all the craft breweries in their region  due to low levels in their reservoirs. Something that had never happened before.  If that doesn't scare the crap out you! Imagine a Canada with no beer. 

What to Expect When Hiking in a Rainforest?

 

RAIN! What happens when there is no rain?

Definition: Rainforest- noun- a luxuriant, dense forest rich in biodiversity, found typically in areas with consistently heavy rainfall.

  

 Wikipedia

Rainforests are forests characterized by a closed and continuous tree canopy, moisture-dependent vegetation, the presence of epiphytes and lianas and the absence of wildfire. Rainforests can be generally classified as tropical rainforests or temperate rainforests but other types have been described. Tropical rainforests are warmer and close to the equator. Temperate rainforests are at latitudes between the two Tropics and Polar Circles. What they have in common is a lot of rain, which causes the lush rainforest canopies to flourish.

Epiphytes- 'air plants' are plants that grow on top of other plants (typically trees) co-existing in the most harmonious, harmless way. They derive their nutrients and other vitals from the air, water, dust, and debris around them.

 Lianas- are plants with long, flexible, climbing stems that are rooted in the ground, and usually have long dangling branches.

On our last few trips to Vancouver Island we have taken the opportunity to explore Juan de Fuca Provincial Park, a linear park that extends over 47 kilometres from the town of Sooke to the small village of Port Renfrew. The park is also home to the challenging Juan de Fuca Trial starting in Sooke and terminating just outside of Port Renfrew. 

The trail meanders along the coast passing through the park’s lush rainforests and beautiful beaches. While we have not hiked the entire trail we have sampled a number of sections and most of its beaches.

See September 2022 blog: A Wet Dream With a Hint of Humidity

We are  off to Port Renfrew, our base for the next two days.  Port Renfrew will bring us into another not so hidden gem of Vancouver Island, the Pacific Rim National Park. Port Renfrew sits on the southern end of this park which extends north to include the communities of Ucleulet and Tofino. We are planning another visit in 2024.

See April 2023 blog: Vancouver Islands Wild Side

Day One dawned a beautiful sunny warm day as we headed for East Sooke Regional Park. The large park is maintained by the regional district and we found the trail standards excellent.  We hiked the Creyke Point and Beechey Head Loop just one of 63 hikes located in the park. This trail was well defined though the coastal trail has lots of roots and rocks making it tricky in places. 

The trail had lots of great ocean views with shaded walks through the rainforest but as we explored the trail we slowly became aware something was very wrong.  The rainforest was looking a little thirsty and very crispy.

According to the Victoria Colonist, rainfall in the first six months of 2023 was the third driest on record in the last 124 years. The summer rainfall was negligible with many of the Island watersheds placed on Level 4 restrictions. Then in late September just before our arrival, the western areas of the Island were placed on Level 5 which bans any outdoor use of water. This level means adverse impacts to socio-economic or ecosystem values are almost certain.  

Next stop was Sandcut Beach, one of the many popular beaches that can be found in Juan de Fuca Provincial Park. The beach is back dropped by interesting sandstone formations that have been eroded by wave action. Looking close you may be might see fossilized shells that have been exposed by the erosion. 

We were hiking to a cute waterfall located on the south end of the Beach that we had seen in pictures and best seen at low tide.  Sadly the falls were feeling the effects of the Level 5 drought. 

If you have been reading any of my previous blogs, you will find the word “drought” has come up a number of times. Drought conditions have become almost a permanent summer condition for the Okanagan. Summer forest fires are no longer referred to as IF but WHEN they will happen.

Global warming is a fact folks. Deniers get your heads of your asses. 

From Sawcut we made our way to Port Renfrew and spent an hour exploring the village, doing a little shopping for dinner before settling down at our cabin for the night. 

We have a busy day planned for tomorrow and things were about to change. 

Roadside Distractions

Faced with another 4,500 kilometre drive for the return to home I was looking for anything that would ease the hours of boredom that we would face and it was Wikipedia to the rescue.

 Roadside Attractions

 A roadside attraction is a feature along the side of a road meant to attract tourists. In general, these are places one might stop on the way to somewhere, rather than being a destination. They are frequently advertised with billboards. The modern tourist-oriented highway attraction originated as a U.S. and Canadian phenomenon in the 1940s to 1960s, and subsequently caught on in Australia.

 When long-distance road travel became practical and famous in the 1920s, entrepreneurs began building restaurants, motels, coffee shops, cafes, and unusual businesses to attract travelers. 

Photo: Tombestonetimes.com

Many of the buildings were attractions in themselves in the form of novelty architecture, depicting everyday objects of enormous size, typically relating to the items sold there. Some other types of roadside attractions include monuments and fictionalized-paranormal/illusionary amusements such as the Mystery Spot near Santa Cruz, California, or curiosities such as “The Thing” along Interstate 10 in Arizona.

Wikipedia

Roadside attractions have been a part of our travels for years.

Giant Lobster

Shediac, New Brunswick

We have for the most part not sought them out; they just sort of snuck up on us. 

Life-size Tyrannosaurus Rex 

Drumheller, Alberta. 

Some were easy to get to while others involved putting in a little effort.

 The Lunar Lander

Located on the slag fields created by the steel mills of Sudbury, Ontario. The fields were used by NASA as a lunar training ground for the Apollo 16 and 17 missions.  

But it is the ones Mother Nature created that most impressed. 

The Giant Sequoia Redwoods

Sequoia National Park, California

So with a little internet research, we discovered Canada has plenty of roadside attractions that could help us overcome the ennui that we were sure to face as we made the long journey home. 

Sometimes you need a little goose to keep the blood flowing. 

While not the biggest in the world it can claim to be the biggest in Canada.

Wawa, Ontario 

When things got a bit tiring, a little amoosement got us mooving.  

Moosejaw, Saskatchewan 

For a while the moose had lost its title as the worlds biggest to one in Norway but a new set of horns allowed him reclaim the title of the biggest in the world. 

On the road, sometimes you feel like you've "bean there, done that". 

Meet Pinto McBean, the worlds largest pinto bean.  Look out Mr. Potato Head. 

Bow Island, Alberta

It was our thirst for the open road that kept us going. 

That and lot of caffeine.

Worlds largest Coke can and refund deposit. 

Portage la Prairie, Manitoba 

Ontario as well as containing the most Canadians in Canada also has the most Loose Change in Canada and quite possibly the world but the world thing may require some additional research. 

The Big Nickel

Sudbury, Ontario

The "Largest" Loonie in Canada

Also claimed to be the largest Loonie in the world. Not hard to claim as I can find no other country who use currency named  Loonie.  Just us crazy Canadians. 

Echo Bay, Ontario

The Towering Toonie

Its actually named the Giant Toonie but I like alliteration. 

Campbellford, Ontario

Mile 3,339, Trans Canada Highway. 

Not an attraction but a stop dedicated to Terry Fox, the one legged athlete who had to end his courageous attempt to run across Canada raising funds for Cancer research on the nearby highway.   

The site is not the exact location but was chosen for its beautiful scenery.  There is a large highway sign as well. 

The Terry Fox Foundation has raised over $850,000,000 for cancer research. 

As you probably guessed by the appearance of this blog that we have made it home safe and sound thanks to those roadside attractions. Each day they were distraction from the boring drive as we looked forward to a seeing them along the way.  We did leave one attraction unvisited with a plan to use it as encouragement for a future road trip. 

The world's "Largest Pysanka".

Ukrainian Easter Egg

Vegreville, Alberta

Photo: vwww.pysanky.info/History