The Okie's and the Okie Nagans: Their Stories

The Okie Story: It began during the Great Depression and the Dust Bowl created by a drought that lasted from 1930 to 1936.  The drought extended over south-eastern Colorado, south-western Kansas, north-eastern New Mexico and the panhandles of Texas and Oklahoma.  Oklahoma was especially hard hit. 

Most farms were small with over 60% being tenant farmers. Years of poor crops saw many small owners losing their farms to foreclosure. For many, it was time to hit the road to greener pastures. They became known as the “Okies”.

Photo: NPR.com 

The Okie Nagan Story: It begins nearly a 100 years later in the severely drought stricken Okanagan Valley. The Great Smoke Bowl, created by wild fires easily started in the tinder dry forests surrounding the Valley.  

Picture: CTV News

We would become known to those we met along the way as the “Okie Nagans”

The “Okies” loaded their meagre belongings in their vehicles with goal of reaching a place that would welcome them. During this period, the San Joaquin valley in California drew over 70,000 migrants with many coming from Oklahoma.

Photo: featherbyfeather.com/tag/great-depression/

With tears in our eyes and burning lungs, the “Okie Nagans” packed their meagre belongings into a 2016 Toyota Prius with a dream of a smoke free visit with their grandchildren.

 

A recent move to a smaller place created the need to divest some of their meagre belongings. An historic family table entrusted to Nonie in the 70”s by her mom who had been given it by her mother had to go. It was now to be entrusted into the keep of a fourth generation great, great, great Granddaughter living in Ontario, making a drive necessary rather than our usual two flights. With only a scant ½ inch to spare, the table was carefully slid into the back of the Prius. As well as the table, an upright cane sewing basket was also loaded for delivery to a great, great, great, great granddaughter to be named at a later date. 

The “Okies” faced a long and arduous 1200 mile (1930 kms) journey to California and were met with indifference and hatred. It was the Dirty 30’s and many folks had little concern for the Okies plight. Arriving in California, they were often forced to work on large farms with low pay living in squatter’s camps under deplorable conditions.

 Photo: depts.washington.edu

For the “Okie Nagans”, it would also be a long and arduous trip.  A 10,800 kilometre (6,700 m) return journey fraught with seedy motels and dodgy roadside dining.  The outbound trip would take nine days with average distances travelled around 500 kilometres a day and driving times of 6 hours or more plus pee breaks in squalid Petro-Canada washrooms, coffee breaks and lunches at the nearest Tim Horton’s. 

Day 1 had us trading for the smoky skies of Blairmore Alberta.  Alberta was also struggling through a drought with accompanying fires. On the morning of Day 2 we paid a return visit to Fort McLeod giving us a short break from driving. We had enjoyed a visit there in the nineties. Nothing much had changed except for the entrance fee to visit the faux fort.   

Day 2, 3 and 4 saw us travelling through the dreaded prairies with our only wish to see just one fricking curve in the road. Terminal boredom was beginning to set in. 

 

To break up this monotony, we spent a day in the Grasslands National Park where we discovered that our annual national park pass had run out the week before. 

 Definition: grasslands- a large open area of country covered with grass”

The definition of “grasslands” pretty well describes Grasslands Provincial Park. It was a nice break from the car but not the boring prairie vistas which can only be described as flat.  The park is also home to an illusive herd of buffalos. Sadly some very old buffalo poop was as close as we came to seeing them but the prairie dogs were plentiful.

 

Somewhere near Winnipeg our GPS went horribly wrong and it became all Dutch to me.  

We entered Ontario on Day 5 and spent the next 4 1/2 days traveling through the Good, the Bad and the Ugly that is Ontario.

 The Good 

Lake Country  / Muskoka – “This region has some of Ontario’s most picturesque area’s with radiant lakes and rivers and an array of activities for all to enjoy year round. Whether you’re after an outdoor adventure on the waters or by bike, a relaxing getaway at a spa or eco-retreat, or fun for the whole family, you are sure to find it here.

 Lake Country Marketing Board

It took us almost three days to meander our way along the coast lines of Lake Huron and Superior. If you look on Google maps from the Manitoba border deep into the centre of Ontario and you will find thousands of lakes dotting the map.  

This is Ontario’s cottage country. Our first day, had us stopping every 10 minutes to admire and enjoy another pristine lake nestled in the rocks of the Canadian Shield. By day three we were still enjoying the lakes but at 120 kilometres and hour.  

Photo: https://viewthevibe.com/torontos-guide-to-ontarios-cottage-country/

Tip: Be aware that if you want to travel to these areas on weekends from April through September you will need to bring the “patience of Job” for the traffic can be brutal with Torontonians heading to their cottages.  If you are subject to bouts of “road rage”, know this, it is also hunting territory and that guy you are giving the finger too could be carrying a rifle. Thankfully it is Canada so it won’t be an assault rifle.

The Bad

Sadly Central Ontario was also suffering through drought conditions and we found ourselves surrounded by forest fires. The smoke was so thick one morning that it left us with terrible tastes in our mouths and a car covered in ash. Thankfully it cleared up as we got closer to the GTA (Greater Toronto Area) with a much healthier layer of smog replacing the smoke.  

 

The Ugly

CBC News: Toronto ranks 3rd most congested city in North America.

Toronto Star: Toronto gridlock is so bad even celebrities are saying it will ‘kill your soul’

 

Talk to anyone who lives in the Greater Toronto Area (GTA) about traffic, be prepared for a long conversation. Having lived in Toronto for a year, we can attest to the above headlines. The other two worse cities are Mexico City (1) and wait for it, Vancouver (2). 

Photo: mcleans.ca

One memorable trip to Ottawa on a long weekend saw us take 3 hours to travel in a rental car from downtown Toronto to the suburbs of Oshawa. It was a trip of just 60 kilometres, much of it on supposed freeways. The congestion was caused mostly by the cottagers escaping Toronto for their cottages in Lake Country, commuters returning home and me. Hey people, that same trip by Go Train is 55 minutes. 

Knowing what we know, I decided to take a longer route that would skirt the edge of GTA and avoid some of that world renowned congestion. Not to be, construction flag persons, congestion, and several car accident road closures made what should have been a pleasant five hour trip (380 kilometres) turn into a hair pulling (figure of speech as I have no hair) 8 ½ hour nightmare.

It was a truly frustrating end to our outbound trip. I was going to have to do some serious thinking about how were going to deal with our return to Penticton, another 4500 kilometres.

Romancing the Stone

It is our last day in Cork and we are off to a small village about a 45 minute public transit bus ride from Cork. We are going there to visit a castle but not just any castle. This castle is visited by over 400,000 visitors each year. So just in case they might all show up today, we have gotten up early to grab a bus that would have us arrive just before the castle opens.  

 

If you haven’t guessed we are here to see Blarney Castle and specifically to get up close and kissy  with a certain Stone.  As we arrived to the main entrance to the site, three large tour buses had already pulled up. Picking up our pace we were able to dodge around them and get through the entrance just ahead of them as they were slow in getting themselves organized. They were probably still groggy from the breakfast buffet. Once inside we made our way quickly along a beautiful path that took us to the castle entrance    

It’s not easy to kiss the Stone. First you must climb up 85 feet of steep centuries old, well used stone steps. We climbed the steps quickly arriving about half way up before we met people who had arrived even earlier than us.

Fifteen minutes later brought us to the battlements at the top of the castle.

 

To kiss the stone you must first lay on your back with your head and shoulders over a hole.  Holding onto two hand rails you need to slide, on your back head down about 20 inches puckering up as you go.  I am sure a gymnast would find this easy but we’re 70 and not so bendy.  

 

Now, let’s talk about the elephant in the castle. With 400,000 kissers, how clean can that stone be? Supposedly, they clean it regularly, I did not see that happening while we waited. But to be fair I wasn’t always looking. So with this running through my mind and a strong vibe that the Stone was not in the mood, the kiss went unrequited and and all I delivered was an air kiss.   

 

Rumours abound as to why people travel from around the world just to come and kiss the stone. The most prevalent one is that by kissing the stone you will be given the gift of blarney which as defined by Miriam-Webster is the “art of skillful flattery”. I did not kiss the Stone but I have been told on occasion that I am full of blarney.  

I came across another rumour while doing my research. There are some who believe the stone was once the deflector stone at the bottom of the castle toilet or garderobe as it was known in medieval times. I took this picture of the garderobe on the East face of the castle where the royal suite is located.  You can see that the garderobe is built on corbels to project it out from the castle wall for obvious reasons.    

I took this picture of the Stone from the ground looking up at it.  Look familiar?

You be the judge. Eeeeew!

 

Due to our early arrival and fleet of feet we were in and out of the castle in 40 minutes. As we exited we found the line for the Stone had grown and was now out of the castle, extending for a good 20 or 30 metres from the entrance. A sign at the entrance had indicated that it was a 60-70 minute wait to reach the Stone from there so perhaps 2 hours for the folks at the end of the line. 

We now had plenty of time to explore the grounds of the castle. The grounds play second fiddle to the stone. Visitors for the most part are here for the kiss and then it is back on the bus and onto the next site on their itinerary leaving the 60 acres of grounds to an intrepid few.

 

The grounds were well worth the next three hours. The Castle itself is a great example of medieval castle architecture and really shows well when seen from a distance.    

One of the more interesting areas was the poison garden. Nonie seem to take a very keen interest in the garden, so much so that it made me a little uncomfortable. 

 Photo: www.charliedistracted.com 

The legend says that if you walk down and back up the Wishing Steps with your eyes closed while thinking of a wish that it will be granted by the Blarney Witch. She steals firewood from the estate for her kitchen and repays this by granting wishes to those who walk the stairs. Nonie refused to tell me her wish but I did experience a number of unfortunate trips as we continued to wander the gardens. 

Visited the Witches Kitchen and found her at home. 

Ooops, sorry, I don't have my glasses on, that may be Nonie. 

The Castle and the grounds have been owned by the Colthurst family for the last  hundred years. They received it by a marital alliance with the Jefferys family, one of who was the governor of the City of Cork in the 19th Century,  The still live in the family manor on the grounds.

It would seem they were not taking visitors today. 

It was back to Cork for some last minute fabric and souvenir  shopping. Tomorrow we head back to Dublin for a hotel near the airport and an early morning flight home.  

Another successful check off on the Bucket List. 

 

A Corking Good Time

 

Our original plan after our experience at Guinness was to rent a car and head out for the Irish county side using the city of Cork as our base. Travel is fun but getting up each morning to pack and move on to another hotel does become wearisome. I believe that the main attraction for cruises is you only need to unpack once. As I researched our travel plans, I found that the bus and train systems in Ireland are all encompassing, there are very few places you cannot get to with public transportation. Trains it is. 

Ireland is a small country, just over 70,000 square miles. Canada is 142 times bigger. Its small size makes it easier to provide public transportation. You can cross the whole country in a day by train while it can take almost 6 days to get across Canada. Booking travel takes a little practice. I found a website named “The Man in Seat Sixty-one” when I was looking to book a trip on the Mongolian and Siberian Express. The site has become my go to for everything trains around the world. With its help I was able to book my Irish tickets along with a hack to turn my cheap tickets into inexpensive first class tickets. 

Left Dublin on a mid-morning train (first class) which had us arriving in Cork just after lunch. Cork is the second largest city in Ireland. Established by the Vikings in the early 10th Century it grew into an important port city. Cork is a working city and a little rough around the edges. A lot less cutesy tourist things than can be found in Dublin.  Our hotel for the next five days was located just on the edge of the downtown next to the River Lee so we spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the area.  

The downtown is in transition much like many of the world’s downtowns. Once a Mecca of shopping malls, they have either closed or look like they are closing. It is an entertainment area with plenty of small shops catering to tourists and of course the ubiquitous pubs. It was news to us but Cork has two arms of the River Lee running through it. We got a little confused and lost for a while. A quick pop into a pub with wifi, a Guinness and a peek at Google Earth found us on the way back to the hotel on the bank of the right River Lee.  Or was that the left bank. 

Photo:https://www.nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel/2018/11/a-locals-guide-to-cork

Next morning, it was back to the train station for a 25 minute ride to the city of Cobh. (Pronounced Cove) While Cobh is scenic, it is better known as the last port of call of the Titanic before it headed across the Atlantic. It is home to a museum and a memorial garden dedicated to the 123 locals who boarded the Titanic in Cobh. As we pulled into the station, I sensed a shift in the force. The station was located along the waterfront. As we pulled in, we found our little train dwarfed by the shadow of a cruise ship, Celebrity’s Silhouette, home to 2,886 passengers.

 Crap!

Long story short, the museum was already fully booked for the day and getting a seat in a pub or café was near impossible. I should also mention that it was a bank holiday in Ireland which may have added to the crowd. We headed up a steep side street and away from the crowded main street where things were less congested. 

The memorial garden was a 2 kilometre walk from the downtown so we were gifted with a quiet and serene place which provided information on some of the people who boarded the Titanic in Cobh.  Who they were and why they were leaving. Amazingly, many of them survived the sinking.

Photo: https://www.excellentstreetimages.com/cork-street-photography

Back to downtown and it was even busier. The trains from Cork run every 40 minutes all day so they too can deliver a ton of tourists. Our plan for a late lunch in Cobh was dumped and it was back on the train for an early supper in Cork. 

The Titanic sailed under the White Star Line. The Cunard Line was a competitor at the time. During the Depression both lines were having difficulties so they became the Cunard-White Star Line and later just the Cunard Line with any sign of White Star in Cobh disappearing. The Cunard Line still exists today under the umbrella of the Carnival Corporation.

A new day, and a new journey, we are off to Limerick.  Beside my desire to write a limerick in Limerick, we were here to visit Prince/King John’s castle. Didn’t read the fine print so it should be noted the John only paid for the place but never visited and yes he is that Prince John used as the model for the book “The Merry Adventures of Robin Hood” as well as the 1973 Disney film Robin Hood.. He was also the king who signed the Magna Carta then refused to abide by it leading to a revolt by his barons and his death from dysentery during the revolt. 

 Photo: https://www.mycast.io/stories/robin-hood

There once was an old lady from Penticton

Who's husband had an affliction.

He said with a sneer, I like my beer

And Guinness feeds my addiction.

Reaching Limerick involved a 2 hour train ride with one change of trains. The castle was located on the other side of Limerick from the station so we enjoyed a lovely walk through the modern city. Not as old as Dublin or Cork but a nice vibe. Arriving at the front door, it seems that we were not being allowed in. 

They have a "No mail, no shield, no sword, no service" policy. Luckily a nearby Shields Are Us was open. Properly attired, we were allowed entry into the castle. 

Entering the grounds, we discovered that the site had been used for a concert the previous night and the grounds were filled with a huge stage, chairs, a huge sound system and a roving forklift completely spoiling our visit. It was lucky they had taken my sword at the door or I would have gone medieval . Instead I closed my eyes, counted to ten and pictured what it would look like. It is a nicely maintained castle well worth a visit.

It was a new mode of transportation for the next day. We were booked on the "Ring of Kerry" bus tour. Our original plan was to rent a car for the day but the pesky bank holiday saw all the rental agencies fully booked. 

The tour took us to most of the places we wanted to see but only just touched them. It really needs several days. From the highest mountains on the Island to the miles of sandy beaches. A feast for the eyes around every corner. 

First stop Killarney. A pretty place totally set up for tourists and they were everywhere. 

A drive by of Dingle Bay on the Iveragh Peninsula. The peninsula  marks the western most point of mainland Ireland.  

Lunch in Waterville. A pretty little village but more famously known as a place  where Charlie Chaplin spent his summer vacations for 10 years. 

A much appreciated Guinness stop in the cute little village of Sneem. Perhaps playing a little Russian roulette as there was no bathroom on the bus. 

The name Sneem means "the knot" that ties together the Ring of Kerry". It is here that three main roads intersect all leading to Sneem. 

A drive through Killarney National Park with a few stops for photo ops. 

The park was the first national park declared in Ireland. The park is one of the few places in Ireland that has been continuously covered by woodland since the end of the most recent glacial period, approximately 10,000 years ago. 

Wikipedia

It was of course a breezy day. 

The island of Ireland produces over 5500 megawatts of  power generating 36% of Irelands electrical demand. 

Wikipedia

The park is hilly though the tour guide insisted on calling them mountains.  The highest point in the park is 850 metres about the same height as Munson Mountain in Penticton.

A short hike to the 18 metre high Torc waterfall. We found the falls a little underwhelming but most of the other passengers seemed  impressed. 

Killarney Park is gorgeous and our kind of place. It definitely deserved more time. 

Back to Cork for a late supper and to hear some traditional Irish music and perhaps some clogging that had been advertised at a pub near our hotel. Couldn’t get into the pub for dinner, it was packed but we returned later as you didn't need to have a table to order a drink. Arrived to the pub in time to hear the band finishing a cover of Adele before jumping into to a cover of  Neil Diamond and no cloggers in sight. It was to be another early night.

Tomorrow is our last day in Cork and our day will be dedicated to a kinky little castle that I am sure you all have heard of.  

An Irish Brewmance

 

In 1755 Arthur Guinness used a £100 bequest to start a small brewery near Dublin with his brother. He started brewing a porter which begat a stout. Long story short port is heavier than ale but lighter than a stout.

 

Things went well and in 1759, Arthur signed an unbelievable lease for an unused brewery in Dublin located at St. James Gate where it is still operating today. The lease was  £45 a year with a term of 9,000 years. Not a typo. In 1769 he exported ale for the first time sending 6 ½ barrels to England. Guinness keeps it sales volumes very tight so that last numbers I could find were for 2011 then selling an estimated 850,000,000 litres of beer around the world.

 

The soft creamy topping didn’t always adorn the mug but was introduced in 1959 by adding nitrogen instead of CO2 as most beers use. Nitrogen produces smaller bubbles than CO2 creating a smoother drink. In 1988 they introduced the widget, a small round food grade plastic ball into their cans. The beer in the cans are pressurized, some of which is trapped in the widget.  When the can is opened and depressurizes, the widget rattles around the can releasing the trapped beer creating foam. Poured properly it delivers that creamy topping and mouth feel. 

 To avoid problems of shipping their foamy elixir around the world, Guinness has opened breweries in over 50 countries including Canada. I cannot remember when I drank my first Canadian can of Guinness but I must admit to being somewhat sceptical at the time regarding the quality of any beer that comes in a can. Boy was I wrong. My only previous experience was sipping it from a glass freshly poured from a cask while touring around Loch Ness Scotland back in 1996. It was here that my love for the black liquid was kindled.

Our return to Dublin for a day was to accommodate a visit to the mother brewery for a “GUINNESS EXPERIENCE”.  Should have been suspicious with the over use of large caps. While the EXPERIENCE was created in one of the oldest brew buildings on site, there was little left to indicate that the place ever made beer.

The term “glitz” would be an understatement. The EXPERIENCE had lots of neon, flashing lights, big screen TV’s, catchy music and large steam punk decorated areas where you could indulge your appetite for  food and a pint and spend more money, basically a five story pub and souvenir shop. I was looking for a tour of a working brewery not a Disney experience. Though, I have to admit having the image of my face set in the foam was kind of cool.  

I do loudly profess that I am not a fan of “Big Beer” and Guinness is certainly up there with the biggest. I prefer to spend my beer budget on locally made dark craft beer but I can't seem to stop comparing  their offerings to Guinness, may Goibhniu (Irish God of beer) forgive me. They are not there yet but getting close but until then  I will purchase the odd 4 pack of Guinness, just to keep my palette educated.

 

Overwhelmed by the EXPERIENCE and perhaps the Guinness, we headed back to the hotel for a nap. We are off to Cork tomorrow.