Monday, February 28, 2022

A Communing Culturally COVID Adventure in Vancouver

 Running out of things to do in the Okanagan, we decided to head to Vancouver for some big city excitement. With a surfeit of unused air miles we booked plane tickets rather than risk winter mountain roads. With a little internet research I had discovered that Vancouver had a lot going on during our stay. Celebration of La Poutine, a Hot Chocolate Festival, the Davinci Experience, the relighting of the 2010 Olympic Torch for the 2022 Olympics, Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel, a free admission cable suspension bridge in Lynn Valley Park and most importantly connecting with friends and family that we have not seen in almost two years. Our bubble is about to expand.  

Day One. Arrived at the Penticton airport in a blizzard wondering if the plane was going to land. Not an unusual occurrence for us. Flying into Penticton during the winter can be a real crap shoot thanks to Valley cloud which can settle in at a moments notice. As the heavier, denser cold air passes over Okanagan Lake it sinks into the Valley creating a layer of cloud we lovingly call Valley Fog. 

Photo: Infotel Penticton

These clouds can remain trapped for weeks but sometimes it can be escaped by driving into the mountains and getting above the cloud layer. On occasion the moister warmer air rising from the lakes mixes with the trapped colder air to create snow. Known as “lake snow” in other parts of the world here we call it “flavage” a termed coined by one of our local weatherpersons.

Over the years, we have been often stymied completing the last leg of our flights into Penticton due to low cloud cover and or snow cancelling the flight. This has required us to spend a night in Vancouver and more often having to fly into Kelowna the next day with the additional hassle of getting to Penticton from there.

Photo: Penticton Western News


It has happened so often, that we have given up flying into and out of Penticton during the winter, instead opting for Kelowna’s airport and its extravagant parking fees or driving to Vancouver on treacherous winter roads. So before choosing travel dates for our Vancouver adventure, I checked the 14 day weather forecast for Penticton and Vancouver selecting our travel dates based on favourable weather forecasts. Sadly 14 day forecasts are really no more then 14 day lucky guesses. Fortuitously, our plane had already landed before the Valley became completely socked in and the snow had started. Taking off is not as difficult as landing in a blizzard but just as scary.  


We arrived into Vancouver to the forecasted partly cloudy with sunny periods but a nasty wind chill that had not been mentioned in the weather forecast. Checked in to the hotel and were quickly off to the Mink Chocolate CafĂ©, a hot chocolate with marshmallow truffle for Nonie. For me, a ruby hot chocolate ganache both specially prepared for the Hot Chocolate Festival. Not to be as it seems they had run out of the ingredients and were no longer available. Disappointed, we moved on to Nonie’s “must go to place” when ever we were in downtown Vancouver. Dressew, a Garden of Eden of fabrics and every kind of sewing notion you could desire. Not to be as they are not open on Mondays. 


Next  stop was the Diva, a bar in the trendy Met Hotel for a feed of Shoyu glazed crispy pork poutine, a tribute to La Poutine Week. But it seems Valentine’s Day had them re-shaping their food menu around a “love” theme and the poutine had been dropped off the menu. Crazy right, I mean, who doesn’t love poutine.

 Photo: La Poutine Week





Our final stop of the day was to see the Vancouver Olympic torch once again lighting up the sky like it did in 2010. 




Sadly, not happening, did someone not pay the gas bill? 


I discovered later that it had been lit but only for the first day of the opening ceremony.  What the f###, our adventure seems to be going quickly off the rails. 




At this juncture, I would like to give a shout out to TransLink, the public company that provides public transportation to most of the Lower Mainland.  The have developed a mass transit system that can rival any we have used around the world. Utilizing their very useful app to plan our trips, we were whisked around quickly and surprisingly on time. The app would meticulously plan your travel and provide an estimate of the time of your arrival. They were never out by more than a couple of minutes on these times.  

Day 2 dawned not with the sun promised fourteen days ago but the overcast and 30% chance of rain promised yesterday. As this was the best forecast for the next three days, we had decided to spend day 2 hiking in Lynn Valley Canyon. Lynn Valley is one of those hidden gems that can be found scattered around the Lower Mainland that provides opportunities to commune with nature while being close to all the amenities of the big city.

 

What attracted me to Lynn Valley was the chance to walk on a cable suspension bridge, something that I tried to do in 1984. We had just moved to the Lower Mainland with our young kids and one sunny Sunday went for a drive to North Vancouver to hike the trails of Capilano Canyon.  

Photo: See Sight Tours



To access trails you needed to cross on the famous Capilano suspension bridge. Arriving, we discovered that there was an admission charge to use the bridge. I was ready to pay but Nonie said we could not afford it and nixed the hike. This ignited the first real fight we had as a married couple. We were mortgaged to the max so money was very, very, very tight. Thus was borne my mantra, “happy wife, happy life”. There was to be no bridge crossing that day.




So here we are 38 years later and the only barrier to crossing this bridge was not an admission charge but Nonie’s fear of bridges that move up and down when walked on. To overcome this fear, Nonie has developed some copping mechanisms that have allowed her to cross bouncy, swingy bridges from Disney World.........










.........to Nepal. 







First she starts humming her happy song, looking straight ahead, never down and the most import, never stopping to enjoy the view till she reached the other side. 


The Lynn Canyon suspension bridge has become just another notch on her bridge belt. She even stopped for a photo op but never look down.

 






The bridge crosses over Lynn Creek which for the past several thousand years has carved out the beautiful Lynn Canyon and filled it with picturesque waterfalls










and deep crystal clear pools. 






Sadly it has also killed and injured dozens of people who fooled themselves into believing they could safely climb down the steep cliffs and swim or dive into these inviting pools.


Stupid is as stupid does.





The trails are well maintained and marked, perfectly suited for a couple of seniors. The trails do climb up and down into the canyon numerous times but instead of intrusive switch back trails, they have installed stairs where any change in elevation was required. This was done to reduce the impact on the environment as stairs require much less area to build on compared to switchback routes. 






While it reduced the environmental impact, not so much for the impact on our legs. "Feeling the burn" became an ongoing sick joke when we kept stumbling up and down all those damn stairs.

 

Arrive early as the place is popular with the locals and visitors. Despite being in the middle of the largest city in BC we had the place mostly to ourselves this morning with only the noise of the rushing water of Lynn Creek. Weirdly, there were no bird calls. Later, sitting at a picnic table by the welcome centre enjoying a well deserved lunch, we watched as droves of noisy tourists started to arrive. 



Lunch over we jumped back on a bus back to civilization with a stop at Drewssew before heading back to the hotel for a few laps in the pool and some hot tub time. No sign of that 30% chance of rain.



Day 3 dawned with the forecasted over cast skies and 30% chance of rain. Not a problem for today was to be a lazy day with indoor plans. We enjoyed a late breakfast in the hotel and then a visit to Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel exhibition at the Vancouver Convention Centre.

 



Nonie and I have had the pleasure of visiting the Sistine Chapel twice. The first time was in 1993 when we were on a family vacation. At the time the Chapel was undergoing restoration and 2/3 of the ceiling was blocked with scaffolding and dust sheets so only a small section of the ceiling was visible.  This visit required two trips to the Vatican as on our first trip we were wearing shorts which are not allowed if you want access to the Chapel. It is still verboten to this day, no bare knees or arms allowed. Twenty years later, the scaffolding and sheets were gone we were dressed appropriately and left awed by the entire ceiling.

Photographs are not allowed but I could not resist and took this in 2014 when God wasn't looking. Does not do the ceiling justice. 




Viewing the ceiling can be daunting, at over 40 meters high with lighting kept low to protect the images. It can be a workout on your neck keeping it in a tilted position that allows you to look up that high. Today’s exhibition made viewing the splendor of the ceiling so much easier and no dress code. Every painting was broken out separately and reproduced on panels from 8’x4’up to 8’x20’ and hung of walls. They are high definition digital reproductions with lots of lighting.

 


When the name Michelangelo pops up in my day, my mind immediately goes to one picture that I first saw on the ceiling in 1993. Till this day, I did not know the name of the painting but it had been burned into my memory. The painting is of a beautiful woman “of course a beautiful woman” known as the Delphic Sibyl. She was a prophet in the 3rd Century who chanted proclamations about future events from the Sibyl rock, a natural rock rostrum found near the Temple of Apollo in Delphi Greece.  There are several paintings of other Sibyl prophets to be found on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel.

 

 


There was not a lot of information provided on the paintings in the Sistine Chapel so I assumed everything I saw had something to do with Jesus. After all, we were in the Vatican, the heart of Catholic religion. Not so. None of the art on the ceiling has any direct relationship to Jesus. Shocking revelation, I know but it had to be told. Over the centuries there has been much discussion of the paintings by historians looking for proof that paintings could be linked to the story of Jesus. But it is all supposition and not built on proven facts. 

Back to the hotel before jumping on the Skytrain out to Surrey and dinner with an old high school friend. We finished day 3 with lots of laughs and good memories and a small surprise at the train station in Surrey. It seems that the frequency of trains into downtown Vancouver have been reduced after 9pm due to COVID, so we had a 20 minute wait for the next one. Using the app we were given an alternate route that involved a different Skytrain stop, the #99 Broadway bus and the Canada Line train which got us to the Yaletown stop only 8 minutes earlier than the later direct train would have.  

Day 4 dawned with the forecasted overcast skies and 60% chance of showers. You should know that when weather forecasters refer to either rain or showers they are implying different kinds of day.  The use of showers implies the weather will change a lot during the day with on and off rain whereas the use of rain implies that the day will see continuous wet weather for hours at a time with the chance it will clear afterwards. 


So the plan today was a run out to the Tsawwassen Mill Outlet Mall in Delta and the indoor Davinci Experience so showers were not going to get in the way of our enjoyment.


We joined Jesus for supper. Probably our last one. 



Davinci was a brilliant painter, anatomist, engineer, inventor, arms dealer and creator of weapons of mass destruction. It would seem a misnomer to call Davinci an arms dealer when you are staring mesmerized at his famous image of the Vitruvian Man which he believed to be a divine connection between the human form and the universe. How could an artist who could create something so perfect design weapons that could kill so many people.  







From the first machine gun to the.......









........first armoured tank, he had designs for all kinds of 15th Century mass killing machines. To be fair, it has not been established which of his designs if any actually made it on to the battle field. But it is the thought that counts; isn’t it?   

 




Thankfully my disappointment of Mr. Davinci was tempered by my enjoyment of an up close visit with the Mona Lisa.  It is thought that Mona is a portrait of the wife of a Florentine merchant who had commissioned Leo to create it. For some reason, Leo had difficulty in giving up the portrait, never delivered it and carried it around with him for most of his life. Having seen the original in the Louvre and now this high definition reproduction, I can see why he could have been crushing on Mona. Culturally sated we headed back into Vancouver for a late dinner with family that was filled with good beer and lots more laughs. 



 

Editor’s Note- Due to Nonie’s Italian heritage, she has inserted herself into my blog. It seems Davinci should actually be written da Vinci but I am too lazy to go back in re-edit that section.

 We woke up to Day 5 with the weather forecast for Penticton to be scattered cloud with sunny periods. Looks like our flight might just get us home and it did. All in all, we can mark this down as another successful Vancouver adventure.

 

Tuesday, November 16, 2021

An Uplifting Moment in Time


It has been two years since we last hugged our grandchildren. While we were able to see them however briefly on Skype visits, they did not prepare us for what we encountered on our first face to face meeting. In October 2019 they were children and we interacted with them as such.

 



Who we found in October 2021 were not children anymore but little adults. Our childish ways were no longer cute as their expectations of how grandparents should act had been raised to a new bar. 



Week one resulted in one word replies to our questions, week two, four or five word responses and by the time we departed whole conversations with opinions and ideas that is when they weren’t glued to their cell phones. We have successfully reconnected.

We have now vowed that barring a nuclear war, we will not allow what ever life throws at us to let more than a few months pass between visits. The icing on the cake is that Peterborough is lovely place with lots of things to entertain us and with the kids in school we had plenty of time to explore till we had to pick them up.

 


We spent a lovely morning in the small town of Port Hope on Lake Ontario to watch 20 kilogram Chinook salmon attempting to climb a fish ladder around a small hydro dam. 




It was mesmerizing watching these huge fish make attempt after attempt to reach their spawning beds. It was not a simple leap of faith as some ignored the ladder and tried to make their way up the sluice walls.

 




A round of disc golf closed out the afternoon.

 






We spent a Sunday morning cruising the Otonabee River and on into the Trent Severin Waterway.  The waterway is a 386 kilometre long canal that connects Lake Ontario all the way to Georgian Bay on Lake Huron. Started in 1833, the last section of the canal into Georgian Bay was finished in 1920. There are 44 locks, many over a hundred years that allow boats to avoid the rapids and falls along the way.

 


The waterway served as the super highway for trade and transportation in 19th Century Central Ontario and the early years of the 20th Century. A wider Welland Canal completed in 1932 replaced it as it could handle the larger ships that had begun entering the Great Lakes system. The Trent Severin continues to operate today as a marine park moving pleasure craft around the many lakes of Central Ontario.

 



The big draw for me was the chance to ride a 117 year old elevator for boats.

 





This lift lock would lift our boat over 64 feet in the air in about 5 minutes. 






At this speed, it would take you over two hours to get to the top of the CN Tower in Toronto.

 






This was all done hydraulically as they hadn’t invented electricity when it was built.  The view from the boat on our return trip was very trippy. 

 






We also shoe horned in a visit to the Canadian Canoe Museum. Can you get any more Canadian?  Our planned 30 minute visit grew into 90 minutes so don’t get me started about canoes unless you have 90 minutes.





 


Between dropping off the grandkids and picking them up from school we made a run out to the Whetung Ojibwa Centre, part souvenir shop/museum on the Curved Lake First Nations Reserve. The Ojibwa (known as Chippewa in the US) are one of the largest populations of Native American peoples. We are always on the look out for a new addition to our aboriginal frog collection. We found nothing of note but we did score some cheap gas for the rental car.

 


As previously stated, we will not allow life to get in the way of frequent visits with our grandchildren so readers, be prepared for more. 

 

 

 

 

Thursday, October 14, 2021

The End of the Road


 The start of our latest trip had us spending a few days in Gibson’s on the Sunshine Coast where we were delivering one of Nonie’s baby quilts to the newest addition of our extended family of friends having grandchildren. Nonie has quilts scattered around the world including China, Japan, Europe, USA, Iraq as well as three of Canada’s provinces.

From here we were to travel to Port Hardy then on to Comox on Vancouver Island. 


From Gibson’s we headed north along Highway 101 also known as the Sunshine Coast Highway. Two and one half hours and a ferry later we reached “the end of the road” and discovered it was a parking lot. The parking lot is located in Lund BC, described by the tourist bureau as a “picturesque seaside village located on the west coast of Canada”.


As Joni Mitchell said "they paved paradise and put up a parking lot".  Lund besides being the "end of the road" was also home to the 115 year old Lund Hotel which doesn't look a day over 100.  

We used the rest of the day to explore Powell River. Next morning, another “end of the road”,  a BC Ferry parking lot for our ferry to Comox. The “end of the road” for the next 11 hours. The ferry had been cancelled and they were sailing a replacement up from Vancouver and expected to arrive in the early evening.    Photo: BC Ferries


The dictionary definition of the phrase “the end of the road” is as follows “the point beyond which progress or survival cannot continue.” Over the years we have found ourselves facing a number of “the end of the roads”.  


The "end of the road” can come in many shapes and sizes. On a weekend cycling trip in Manning Provincial Park we found an “end to the road” with our progress blocked by the dozens of pine beetle infested trees that had had fallen across all the trails.

 



We reached the “end of the road” on Haida Gwaia.  No parking lot here, nothing but beach and the Pacific Ocean as far as the eye could see.




A recent bike trip on Mission Creek Greenway in Kelowna, found us at the “end of the road” with no more forward progress due to a flooded Mission Creek.

 




On the Big Island of Hawaii we found the “end of the road” was due to a lava field from a recent eruption of the Kilauea volcano complex.

 



In South America, our “end of the road” was the city of Ushuaia, Argentina, located on the southern most tip of South America. The next stop, the South Pole.  

 

Easter Island is only 16 kilometres wide with its closest neighbour over 2,000 kilometres away. The “end of the road” here is at Anakena Beach, a white coral sand beach guarded by 6 moai statues and 2,000 miles of Pacific Ocean

 



The Gobi Desert does not really have any roads so here our “end of the road” was anywhere the damn camels decided they had had enough and refused to move any more.

 


I expect that we will have more "end of the road" experiences before the "END OF THE ROAD".  At my age, I am starting to think more about that and how my forward progression will come to a halt. If I have any say in it, it will end quickly, respectfully and not in a parking lot.

Image: shirtoid.com


Tuesday, July 27, 2021

Vancouver's Wild Side


Woman injured in latest coyote attack in Stanley Park

This recent Vancouver Sun headline immediately caught my eye as we had scheduled a trek through the park. Additional research revealed that a number of coyote/human contacts had occurred in Stanley Park and not ended well for either humans or Coyotes as stated in this Time Colonist headline 

Four coyotes euthanized after toddler bitten during walk in Vancouver's Stanley Park

Over the years it has been our sacred belief that “urban trekking” was a safe and stress free source of adventure free from preditors especially in city parks all though before dusk. They were high on our list of safe places to roam. The dangers that now lurk in Stanley Park have some what shaken this belief. Not to be deterred, we decided to continue on with our planned trek. Perhaps the headlines were embellished. 

Photo: Global News


A decision to pack bear spray was considered after a futile attempt to find and purchase “coyote spray”. We did find a product called “Coyote Piss” but it is an odorific used to scare foraging deer away from your flower garden and not to be worn as a perfumed deterrent for coyote attacks. Our thoughts were, if bear spray will scare a bear away, it should be enough to shoo a coyote. Our next question “Could bear spray be legally carried in Vancouver parks?” was answered by this headline from the Vancouver sun.  

 Vancouver police warn of criminal charges for carrying bear spray in the city

It seems that we were to go hiking unarmed.



We began the 10 kilometre journey from Lumberman’s Arch. A log arch structure that was first erected in 1912 at Pender and Hamilton Streets, to honour a visit by the then Governor General of Canada, the Duke of Connaught, son of Queen Victoria and was relocated to the park in 1913. 

We chose this as our starting point as Stanley Park is pet friendly and what dog wouldn’t take the opportunity to urinate on this big hunk of wood. Coyotes are a closely related species  so a bladder full coyote might want to hang out here. Not today.   


Our route through the Park was the iconic Stanley Park sea wall, well marked with separate paths for bikes walkers and coyotes. Despite the dangers, the park was very busy. The path has great views of Burrard Inlet attracting unwitting tourists.




 

Lots of  container ships today waiting their turn to load raw goods like sulphur and the much loathed Tar Sands oil.  




 

A busy park meant lots of tempting coyote prey. This played well into our strategy for protecting ourselves against any foraging coyotes.  The plan was to ensure we were surrounded by tourists, specifically those who looked weaker and slower than us. We wore our running shoes so should we be stalked by coyotes, we could out run those slower, weaker Croc wearing tourists.   






The half way point of our hike was Siwash Rock, one of the many scenic photo ops to be found in Stanley Park. The rock was created by burning hot magma from a nearby volcano and forced upwards through a crack in the Earth’s surface creating this interesting stack of basalt. The shape of the rock caught the attention of the local indigenous population, the Squamish who wove a family friendly creation history around the rock. Alas no coyotes yet.


 


Third Beach, Second Beach passed us by again nary a sign of coyotes. We found various piles of excrement evident here and there but neither Nonie nor I are conversant in Coyote scat but were suspicious that what we were seeing was actually left by indifferent and inconsiderate dog owners.  


Photo: coyoteyipps.com 


 

As we reached the popular beach at English Bay, we found the remnants of a whale carcass that could possibly have been picked clean by coyotes.  Perhaps it was lucky that we did not come across a Stanley Park Coyote. 


Feeling less invincible, we decided to exit the park into the equally wild West End of Vancouver. No coyotes here just aggressive vendors hawking Vancouver souvenirs and quite possibly rabid as one seemed to be foaming at the mouth. On a closer look, it was actually residual foam from a venti Starbucks latte. Inukshuks seemed to be the hot seller. 


With not a single coyote sighted, obtaining a trapper’s license for Stanley Park seemed it might be a waste of time. 

Photo: CBC News


So it was back to Penticton and our post COVID19 life or more fearfully a pre COVID19 4th wave lockdown.

For God sake people, get the frigging vaccine.