Travel with a Ferryphobic

Day 8 proved to be even hotter than day 7. Our 93 % certainty of where we had to catch our ferry to Japan was to prove faulty. We like to arrive early for any of our departures and today was no different, leaving the hotel about 2.5 hours before our departure time.  It was only a 10-minute  sweaty walk to the International Cruise terminal. 

The international cruise terminal passenger area was pretty quiet, something that made us a little apprehensive as we had hoped to find signage indicating some directions to our check in point.  We were early, this is China so our stress levels were still in the green zone. 

At 90 minutes to departure, it was starting to move into the red. We had been told we would find the check in area in the parking area of the terminal. We tried to enter into an area marked as passenger waiting room only to be growled at by a surly guard at the gate.  Made several calls to the ferry company that went unanswered. At 60 minutes, our stress levels were clearly in the red. 

There was a new guard at the entrance to the passenger waiting area, so we tried again. This one was way friendlier. He listened and immediately walked us over to a partially  hidden driveway that led to down to more parking areas under the terminal. We walked down the dimly lit curving ramp and in a dimly lit area at the back was a small illuminated sign flashing “waiting area”. Stress returned to green.   

Talking Nonie into taking a ferry to Japan was a bit of a challenge. She has a healthy fear of water and had read to many stories of Asian ferries flipping over.  This was her vision I had to over come.  I told her that the head office for the Japan China International Ferry was in Osaka. Based in Japan gave Nonie some comfort that the ship, the Xinjian Zhen was Japanese and would be clean and well run. I may have not provided all the pertinent information.  

As we loaded the bus that would take us out to the ship's berth, I silently prayed that the image of the ship prominently pictured on their website was what we would find or Nonie may not want to board.  

It was, almost, at least close enough that she got on board. 

The Xinjian Zhen  travels between Shanghai and Osaka and alternately Kobe Japan hauling mostly freight and few if any cars. 

The trip took us down the very busy Huangpu River, into the Yangtze River out into the Yellow Sea, across the East China Sea, Sea of Japan and into the Inland Sea of Japan docking at Kobe two days later. 

I had booked the Special room

but in fact it was nothing special. We were joined  on board by about 30 passengers. Mostly Chinese vacationers, business men and one retired English couple about our age.  More about them later as they stayed mostly in their room, a VIP room and we did not get to know them that well on the ship. Perhaps I should have booked the VIP room. 

Day 9 was mostly uneventful. 

The seas were calm as we entered the Inland Sea of Japan through narrow strait where we caught our first glimpse of Japan.  

The food was standard Chinese cafeteria food.   I had suspected that so we did pack some snacks and ate noodle bowls from the vending machine avoiding the cafeteria. 

Breakfast was included in our ticket but lunch and dinner was at our cost.  As you can see, breakfast was very filling and very Chinese. 















The ship had free laundry machines so we took advantage of them and recharged our wardrobe, ready for Japan. 

So did the other passengers who filled the hallways with drying laundry. 

The last night on board was an evening of inexpensive drinks in the lounge and a dazzling display of karaoke by yours truly belting out one of my favourite Beatle's tune, Michelle to a packed crowd.  Standing O's all around. 

Tomorrow morning we land in Kobe, the start of our Japanese adventure. 

From Shivers to Sweat

Day 5 and travelling from 10 C to 28 C and 80% humidity in under four hours was a bit of a shock to the system and a challenge on selecting the right clothes. Layers are the secret, which we quickly shed as we exited the plane. 

We decided to skip the speedy 431 kilometres per hour mag-lev train and take the slower subway into Shanghai. The subway system is first class and easily ridden by anyone who has some experience in riding the subway any where else in the world. No problem finding our hotel. Having visited Shanghai on several occasions and kinda knew our way around. 

We selected our hotel as it was close to the international cruise ship terminal, our departure point for Japan in two days hence. Upon arriving to our room and setting down our luggage, an annoying buzzing noise started up. It was difficult to determine where it was coming from but it did seem to becoming from the cooling system in the ceiling. I went down stairs reported the problem and ten minutes later two maintenance men showed up. The crawled up into the ceiling and tapped and pushed everything in sight but failed to stop the buzz which was now becoming quite annoying. I went back downstairs and requested a new room which was quickly granted. We grabbed our luggage and headed downstairs to a new room. The annoying buzz follow us down the hallway, into the elevator and into our new room. Seemed the whole hotel had a problem.

Our new room was even more opulent then our first room. A corner suite on the 12th floor with floor to ceiling windows on two side and dramatic views of Shanghai and the Pudong. Except for the annoying buzz, everything was perfect. Or was it? 

As we sat enjoying the view, Nonie suddenly jumped up, ran to her luggage, ferociously ripping things from her bag, emerging with a hand full of buzzing electric toothbrush. Problem solved.

Day 6 dawned with clear blue skies and high humidity. We quickly opened all the curtains of our room so we could enjoy the magnificent views and let the sun shine in. In just a few minutes, the temperature of the room went from 22C to 32C. The AC unit struggled to lower the temperature for the next two days without much success despite keeping the curtains fully closed for the rest our stay.

Today, we were headed to Hangzhou today to spend time with more of our extended Chinese family, Abbas and Solmaz.  Hangzhou is located 50 minutes from Shanghai by high speed train. Like most train stations in China, Hongqiao Station is a very busy place requiring much patience and standing in line. Getting into the right line is very important as we have learned over the years. No seats were available but we were able to purchase standing tickets. We could easily stand for 50 minutes. We have had friends travel on standing tickets for trips lasting over 24 hours. 

We found some room near the back of the car at the opposite end from the washrooms. Tip, always try and get seats away from the washrooms. Shortly after the train departed a young East Indian man stood up and offered Nonie his seat. Nonie took him up on his offer and for the next 45 minutes I learned more about her benefactor. He was from India and currently living in Shanghai working in his family’s textile business. The area Around Hangzhou is one of the main textile areas of China but it was unclear if he was buying or selling.  None thinks he was selling cloth made in India to the Chinese. 

Abbas was there to meet us at the station along with another addition to our extended Chinese family, their daughter Maya. Maya was very shy and clung on to her father. She rode in the back of the car with Nonie and became quite anxious and started to cry. Abbas stopped, parked and tried to calm her. She was fine as long as he cuddled her but when he tried to place back in her car seat, she was having none of that. It seemed we were at an impasse. Nonie’s grandma instincts kicked in and reaching into her bag pulled out a small gift that we had brought for her, two dvd’s of Peppa Pig.  I just so happened that Peppa was Maya’s favourite cartoon. A connection was made, smiles all around and the drive resumed over excited discussions of the adventures of Peppa Pig. 

Brunch was ready for us when we arrived. We introduced Solmaz and Abbas along with most of our extended family to the concept of brunch. Solmaz had prepared pancakes for us, something  else she learned from Nonie during one of our many brunches.  

After brunch it was off for a car tour of Hangzhou. We had visited previously so headed out of the city and into the hills surrounding the city. Tea orchards/plantations/farms/field were everywhere, pouring down the terraced slopes like green waterfalls.

A stop at a small village where we enjoyed the freshest cup of tea ever. From tea bush/tree/shrub to tea pot. Then it was back to Hangzhou for dinner and on to the train station and Shanghai. We had seats for this trip.

Day 7 was a busy day. On to the Japanese consulate to pick up our rail tickets, confirm ferry tickets and physically walk to the ferry boarding area. Despite verbal directions from the ferry people, we wanted to be 100% sure of where were going. A habit developed in China after a lot of lost time and missed appointments. By the end of the day we were 93% sure we knew where to go as ferry signage was none existent at the cruise terminal.

The rest of the day was spent with a walk along the Bund. A surprisingly clear day with nice views of the Pudong.  The Pudong is a recently created(20 years or so) modern neighbourhood located across the Huangpu River from the Bund.

At night the buildings are lit up with 40 story images projected on the sides of the high-rises. Very stunning. Picture compliments of Wikipedia. I could never do it justice. 

It was then on to what had been advertised as Old Shanghai. Basically, a giant, refurbished souvenir market with way to many tourists. 

Along the way we accidently stumbled across the real "Old" Shanghai.  After some desultory souvenir shopping it was back to the hotel to prepare for our next adventure. We are off to Japan tomorrow.

Harbin Revisited

As we had expected, Janie had planned a full schedule for our short 3 days stay in Harbin. Day 2 of our adventure started early, enjoying a meal  in a little hole in the wall that specialized in breakfast  about a block from our hotel. The menu included a pancake like bread stuffed with meat of an unknown variety. Along with the pancakes, there was a variety of porridge like dishes resembling oatmeal. My favourite was the heavily sweetened one. A good hearty start to the day.

Then it was off to meet Joy, for only the second time in 4 years. The first time was at the hospital, a few days after her birth. We returned to Canada shortly after with our only contact being pictures. They did no do her justice, she is a beauty.

She was a bit reticent when we first arrived, hanging on tightly to her grandmother’s (Janie’s mom) leg. She has seen pictures of us and knew who we were. Janie’s mom and dad live in Harbin and have been taking care of Joy since she was borne. A very typical Chinese scenario when both parents work. 

After lunch, we went for a walk in a nearby park. A chance for a little one on one time with Joy. Did not take long for grandma Nonie to break the ice while grandpa Brett took a little longer. We do have some experience as grandparents with a few tricks up our sleeves. With our own grandchildren living far away, it takes a few hours to make a connection with them when we first arrive. One ride in a crazy electric car and Joy was putty in our hands. 

Dinner that night was a big affair with Janie’s parents, uncles, aunt, and a young couple that Janie referred to as her brother and sister along with their young daughter. In China, it is common to refer to cousins as brother or sister.  Lots of conversation but much of it in Chinese so lots of smiling and nodding and charades from Nonie and I.  

We finished the evening at what was billed as an “evening of jazz” in the newly constructed Harbin Music Hall.  A stunning building.

We were awarded with a stunning Harbin sunset.

Day 3 started with a hearty bowl of mien (noodles) at another steamy hole in the wall near our hotel.

Then it was off to visit Polar Land, an aquarium, slash zoo that has been a tourist attraction in Harbin for decades. Never took the time to visit when we lived here. The big-ticket show is the Beluga whales. They have been trained to work very, very closely with their handlers and interact with them in almost erotic connections.

And of course, what polar aquarium would not have a few penguins, some fat, sassy, smelly seals and a polar bear of two.

Lunch was one of our favourite meals, hot pot. To describe it, would leave you wondering what could be so tasty about boiling meat, tofu, mushrooms, and various greens in pots of broth. Think fondue and like a fondue, it can go on for hours. Two broths are usually provided, one plain and one spicy hot. If you don’t walk away with you lips on fire then you haven’t had a good hot pot.

After lunch, we picked up Joy and it was off to Sun Island, for us, a park of many happy memories of past summer picnics.

The day was quite cool and windy and keeping Joy amused was a full-time job. 

Back at home we went into full scale dumpling construction. The sign of a good dumpling is when they don’t break apart when being boiled. Janie’s mom and dad with had that down pat and with Nonie’s help delivered six delicious and differently stuffed dumplings for dinner.

Day 4 started with a visit to the university HIT.  A visit to our favourite coffee place for a real coffee and breakfast but alas it was no longer there but quickly as one place closes another opens up nearby. After coffee, we took a stroll around campus, visiting all our old haunts.

We stopped at the dormitory building we had lived and happily discovered we had not been forgotten by the staff. They seemed pleased to see us and wanted to know if we were coming back. We stopped at the Red building, where we did most of our teaching and again were recognized by the staff. I sometimes pondered, that as we wander through life, whether we left a mark or impression on the world. It was nice to see that we had, even for a short time. Picture is from our first week in Harbin

Time to meet Justin for lunch. We had planned to have lunch at another small hole in the wall near the campus that we had name Janie and Justin’s. It was a policy of our extended Chinese family that we give Western names to our favourite restaurants as the Chinese names were Chinese to us and we need a way to simplify the so that we could all remember it.

The Smiley Girls, Freckles, The Fat Kid, The Dog House, Leah and Will’s, just a few of the names given to our other favourite restaurants. The naming of a new restaurant was not a simple process and much banter and arguing went on before a name was bestowed upon a restaurant. The name often reflecting some aspect of the restaurant. The Smile Girls, received its name because of the giant smiles of the two young fuyuans who were always there when we arrived.

Restaurants can come and go quickly in Harbin and sadly Justin and Janie’s was no more. A short walk, only to find the Fat Kid was no more.  Across the street was a chuanar restaurant, happily our second most favourite Chinese cuisine. It is best eaten, late on a hot summer evening, sitting on little stools, placed out on the sidewalk, drinking large bottles of cold Harbin beer and watching the chef cook little bits of fatty meat on skewers over a very dirty charcoal grill, the black oily smoke from the charcoal hovering over our heads like a storm cloud.  MMmmm good!

Back to Janie and Justin’s for a last visit with Joy before leaving for a late dinner on Harbin’s famous walking street.

Magically, dish after dish of all our favourites appeared on the table. Janie and Justin had remembered them all, not missing one.  It was a nice ending to sadly, a short stay. We had an early flight the next day to Shanghai. 

It is our dream to one day host doctor j and her parents in Canada.  Hopefully before she becomes Doctor J.

We have such great plans!

You Can Never Go Back???

There is a saying that says “You can never go back” and when we left Harbin, for what we thought was to be our last time in January of 2014, we believed it to be true. But as we discovered, “You can go back” if you have the stamina.

It took us 20 hours in airports, airplanes and cars to finally arrive in Harbin, minutes before midnight the next day.  The 20 hours included a dash through the Guangzhou airport to catch our connecting flight to Harbin. China Southern Air, delivered us 40 minutes late to Guangzhou, leaving us only 60 minutes to get through customs, security and over to a different terminal. Thankfully, we had only carry-on luggage and China Southern was up to the task.

As we exited the plane, we had large green dots slammed onto our chests and quickly directed to the customs hall where we were placed into a special line which jumped us head of everyone else.  

On to security, where the green dots got us into a special line and again cut in front of others who had clearly been waiting a long time to clear security. Lots of long, mean looks from those poor souls. Been there myself, so I can relate.  We are definitely going to keep the green dots for future use.

Upon exiting security, we were hustled onto one of those electric carts that you see in airports around the world, usually shuttling elderly folk or VIPs between gates.  With lights flashing and horn beeping and feeling very special, we were dropped off at the entrance to the terminal where we were to catch our flight to Harbin.

The Guangzhou airport is very modern with moving walkways that with a brisk walk, can carry you quickly to your gate.

One small problem, the Chinese do not adhere to the “Keep to the Right” rules of escalators and walkways. They, along with their many, many, many suitcases create an immovable roadblock, making speedy passage on these moveable walkways virtually impossible. If we were to make our flight, a power walk/jog was in order because as expected in these situations, our gate was as far away as you could get from the terminal entrance. With minutes to spare, we caught the last shuttle bus out to the airplane.

It had been a long day, but made much sweeter when we were greeted by the smiling faces of Doctor J and Doctor J. We first met Janie and Justin on our arrival to Harbin in 2008.

At the time, they were both completing their doctorates at HIT. They quickly became a part of our extended Chinese family, a bond that continues 9 years later.

They are now well into successful careers and proud parents of Joy who we call doctor j as her proud Jiānádà zǔfùmǔ (加拿大祖父母), Canadian grandparents.