Harbin Revisited

As we had expected, Janie had planned a full schedule for our short 3 days stay in Harbin. Day 2 of our adventure started early, enjoying a meal  in a little hole in the wall that specialized in breakfast  about a block from our hotel. The menu included a pancake like bread stuffed with meat of an unknown variety. Along with the pancakes, there was a variety of porridge like dishes resembling oatmeal. My favourite was the heavily sweetened one. A good hearty start to the day.

Then it was off to meet Joy, for only the second time in 4 years. The first time was at the hospital, a few days after her birth. We returned to Canada shortly after with our only contact being pictures. They did no do her justice, she is a beauty.

She was a bit reticent when we first arrived, hanging on tightly to her grandmother’s (Janie’s mom) leg. She has seen pictures of us and knew who we were. Janie’s mom and dad live in Harbin and have been taking care of Joy since she was borne. A very typical Chinese scenario when both parents work. 

After lunch, we went for a walk in a nearby park. A chance for a little one on one time with Joy. Did not take long for grandma Nonie to break the ice while grandpa Brett took a little longer. We do have some experience as grandparents with a few tricks up our sleeves. With our own grandchildren living far away, it takes a few hours to make a connection with them when we first arrive. One ride in a crazy electric car and Joy was putty in our hands. 

Dinner that night was a big affair with Janie’s parents, uncles, aunt, and a young couple that Janie referred to as her brother and sister along with their young daughter. In China, it is common to refer to cousins as brother or sister.  Lots of conversation but much of it in Chinese so lots of smiling and nodding and charades from Nonie and I.  

We finished the evening at what was billed as an “evening of jazz” in the newly constructed Harbin Music Hall.  A stunning building.

We were awarded with a stunning Harbin sunset.

Day 3 started with a hearty bowl of mien (noodles) at another steamy hole in the wall near our hotel.

Then it was off to visit Polar Land, an aquarium, slash zoo that has been a tourist attraction in Harbin for decades. Never took the time to visit when we lived here. The big-ticket show is the Beluga whales. They have been trained to work very, very closely with their handlers and interact with them in almost erotic connections.

And of course, what polar aquarium would not have a few penguins, some fat, sassy, smelly seals and a polar bear of two.

Lunch was one of our favourite meals, hot pot. To describe it, would leave you wondering what could be so tasty about boiling meat, tofu, mushrooms, and various greens in pots of broth. Think fondue and like a fondue, it can go on for hours. Two broths are usually provided, one plain and one spicy hot. If you don’t walk away with you lips on fire then you haven’t had a good hot pot.

After lunch, we picked up Joy and it was off to Sun Island, for us, a park of many happy memories of past summer picnics.

The day was quite cool and windy and keeping Joy amused was a full-time job. 

Back at home we went into full scale dumpling construction. The sign of a good dumpling is when they don’t break apart when being boiled. Janie’s mom and dad with had that down pat and with Nonie’s help delivered six delicious and differently stuffed dumplings for dinner.

Day 4 started with a visit to the university HIT.  A visit to our favourite coffee place for a real coffee and breakfast but alas it was no longer there but quickly as one place closes another opens up nearby. After coffee, we took a stroll around campus, visiting all our old haunts.

We stopped at the dormitory building we had lived and happily discovered we had not been forgotten by the staff. They seemed pleased to see us and wanted to know if we were coming back. We stopped at the Red building, where we did most of our teaching and again were recognized by the staff. I sometimes pondered, that as we wander through life, whether we left a mark or impression on the world. It was nice to see that we had, even for a short time. Picture is from our first week in Harbin

Time to meet Justin for lunch. We had planned to have lunch at another small hole in the wall near the campus that we had name Janie and Justin’s. It was a policy of our extended Chinese family that we give Western names to our favourite restaurants as the Chinese names were Chinese to us and we need a way to simplify the so that we could all remember it.

The Smiley Girls, Freckles, The Fat Kid, The Dog House, Leah and Will’s, just a few of the names given to our other favourite restaurants. The naming of a new restaurant was not a simple process and much banter and arguing went on before a name was bestowed upon a restaurant. The name often reflecting some aspect of the restaurant. The Smile Girls, received its name because of the giant smiles of the two young fuyuans who were always there when we arrived.

Restaurants can come and go quickly in Harbin and sadly Justin and Janie’s was no more. A short walk, only to find the Fat Kid was no more.  Across the street was a chuanar restaurant, happily our second most favourite Chinese cuisine. It is best eaten, late on a hot summer evening, sitting on little stools, placed out on the sidewalk, drinking large bottles of cold Harbin beer and watching the chef cook little bits of fatty meat on skewers over a very dirty charcoal grill, the black oily smoke from the charcoal hovering over our heads like a storm cloud.  MMmmm good!

Back to Janie and Justin’s for a last visit with Joy before leaving for a late dinner on Harbin’s famous walking street.

Magically, dish after dish of all our favourites appeared on the table. Janie and Justin had remembered them all, not missing one.  It was a nice ending to sadly, a short stay. We had an early flight the next day to Shanghai. 

It is our dream to one day host doctor j and her parents in Canada.  Hopefully before she becomes Doctor J.

We have such great plans!