What to Expect When Hiking in a Rainforest? Part 2

RAIN! What happens if there is too much rain. Nothing, we won’t melt.

Day 2 dawned nothing like Day 1. The weather man had mentioned that there was a chance of rain but we have a mantra that takes care of those occasions and have used it on a number of dampish hikes. 

“WE WON’T MELT”

See blog June 2020-  5% of 40 Days and 40 Nights

So with a warm breakfast of hot oatmeal and lots of brown sugar and some local coffee under our belts, we headed out for our first hike of the day, Botanical Beach and Botany Bay.

The Botanical Beach parking lot is the western terminus of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail, located at Kilometre 47. This parking lot provides access to nearby Botany Bay and Botanical Beach itself.

Botanical Beach affords visitors with access to uniquely rich tide pools and shoreline trails with fantastic geological features. The extensive variety of marine flora and fauna in this colourful intertidal zone includes red, purple and orange starfish and sea urchins, white gooseneck barnacles, blue mussels and green sea anemones and sea cucumbers. Coralline algae, periwinkles, chitons and sea stars can also be seen at Botanical Beach.

 BC Parks

The trail is a 2.5 km loop taking you first down to Botany Bay then along the coast to Botanical Beach. From Botany Bay the trail follows the coastline to Botanical Beach before returning to the parking lot.  We left our cabin with dark cumulonimbus clouds hanging over us looking like they contained a lot of water. It seemed like we were going to test our “We won’t melt” theory. It was going to be a rainy day.

Definition: rai’ny- (adjective) a period of time, or an area having a great deal of rainfall

 

As we drove to the parking lot for the trail head, it was starting to drizzle. 

Definition: driz’zle- (noun) light rain falling in fine drops

 

As we entered the trail to Botany Bay, it started spitting and kept it up for most of the walk. Thankfully the trail was wide and well maintained so we could skirt around the ever growing puddles.

Definition: spi’ting rain’- (verb) heavier sporadic rain drops, well spaced out 

As we arrived to Botany Bay it was also becoming quite misty. We managed to find some escape from the rain under trees where I dared to take out my camera without the danger of getting it soaked. 

Definition: mist’y- (verb) a cloud of water droplets suspended in the atmosphere at or near the earth’s surface.

 

As we left Botany Bay, it began to pour. The trail from Botany Bay to  Botanical Beach follows the coastline and was rocky and root filled, a combination best avoided when wet. 

Definition: pour’- (verb) flow rapidly in a steady stream

To take photos  at Botanical Beach, I made the risky decision to use my cell phone which I was almost sure was water resistant? Checking later, it was not. Phew!

Botanical Beach is best visited on a sunny day during a low tide of 1.2 metres. I planned this day around a low tide. I thought that the levels of low and high tides were always the same. Well I learned they were not. Today’s low tide at the time we arrived was not 1.2 metres but 2.2 metres so many of the tidal pools were still under water.

 

Exploring the tidal pools from the wet rocks was a slippery experience and with rain drops hitting the pools seeing any flora or fauna was near impossible. It was a quick visit. 

As we headed back the clouds opened up and the rain became torrential. Arriving at the car our rain proof clothing was no longer rain proof and we had soaked up a few extra pounds of water in them. But hey, we didn't melt. 

Definition: tor’en’tial- (adjective) abundant, aplenty, present in great quantity

Our original plan was to head to the nearby Mill Bay trail for a short hike to a protected gravel beach and enjoy some lunch while keeping our eyes out for passing whales. Instead it was back to the cabin which as luck would have it, had a clothes dryer and a warm shower. With a full stomach, dry clothes and a little sunshine, we headed out to do a more in depth exploration of the area around Port Renfrew. 

We spent the next few hours exploring a local beach that was covered with some of the largest bore trees that I had ever seen littering a beach. 

It was back to the cabin for supper and a wine infused game of Scrabble.

 

Go full circle on Southern Vancouver Island with the Pacific Marine Circle Route. A road with varied landscapes, stops and views, the loop is a popular trek amongst driving enthusiasts. The total drive clocks in at a total of 289 km or 179 miles. With the beach pull outs, broad ocean views and a leg that takes you past some of the most majestic old-growth forest on Vancouver Island, the Pacific Marine Circle Route ranks high amongst drivers. It’s also a thrilling drive—winding roads and steep hills will put your handling skills to the test!

Vancouverisland.travel  

Weather on Day 3 was a repeat of Day 2, perhaps a little less torrential and more drizzle. We have been following the Pacific Marine Circle Route which takes you from Victoria to Sooke, Port Renfrew, Lake Cowichan, Duncan and back to Victoria. 

Our planned first stop today was Avatar Grove. It is a majestic stand of old-growth red cedar. On July 2023, the site was closed to the public for safety and environmental reasons. Basically too many people were accessing the site, a problem that is being faced by numerous tourist sites around the world. If it is reopened, we will be back as it is definitely a reason for another trip. 

Instead we made do with the cute Fairy Lake Bonsai Tree. 

All was not lost though as we did manage to find the lesser known Harris Creek Sitka Spruce just a short walk off the road. It is advertised as being over 4 metres in diameter at the base and 80 metres tall. 

A quick wander through Lake Cowichan before a hike into Skutz Falls for lunch. Not a really a falls more like tall rapids but it was the cool name that attracted us. A little research and we found that the name was originally Skwets or Squitz which means "waterfall" in Halkomelem, the Cowichan dialect. 

Before heading back to Victoria, we finished the day taking the walking tour of the totems that can be found scattered around the city of Duncan. Well worth the stop. 

Photo: cvmuseum.ca/education/duncans-totems/

It is reported that British Columbia contains close to 25% of the world’s temperate rainforest.  Most of it is located it along its 25,725 kilometres of coastline.  Our experience this trip really highlighted it is not just logging that is putting the rainforest in jeopardy. Droughts are becoming a fact of our life. In 2020 while visiting  the Sunshine Coast (in the middle of a rainforest), the regional district had to turn off water supplies to all the craft breweries in their region  due to low levels in their reservoirs. Something that had never happened before.  If that doesn't scare the crap out you! Imagine a Canada with no beer. 

What to Expect When Hiking in a Rainforest?

 

RAIN! What happens when there is no rain?

Definition: Rainforest- noun- a luxuriant, dense forest rich in biodiversity, found typically in areas with consistently heavy rainfall.

  

 Wikipedia

Rainforests are forests characterized by a closed and continuous tree canopy, moisture-dependent vegetation, the presence of epiphytes and lianas and the absence of wildfire. Rainforests can be generally classified as tropical rainforests or temperate rainforests but other types have been described. Tropical rainforests are warmer and close to the equator. Temperate rainforests are at latitudes between the two Tropics and Polar Circles. What they have in common is a lot of rain, which causes the lush rainforest canopies to flourish.

Epiphytes- 'air plants' are plants that grow on top of other plants (typically trees) co-existing in the most harmonious, harmless way. They derive their nutrients and other vitals from the air, water, dust, and debris around them.

 Lianas- are plants with long, flexible, climbing stems that are rooted in the ground, and usually have long dangling branches.

On our last few trips to Vancouver Island we have taken the opportunity to explore Juan de Fuca Provincial Park, a linear park that extends over 47 kilometres from the town of Sooke to the small village of Port Renfrew. The park is also home to the challenging Juan de Fuca Trial starting in Sooke and terminating just outside of Port Renfrew. 

The trail meanders along the coast passing through the park’s lush rainforests and beautiful beaches. While we have not hiked the entire trail we have sampled a number of sections and most of its beaches.

See September 2022 blog: A Wet Dream With a Hint of Humidity

We are  off to Port Renfrew, our base for the next two days.  Port Renfrew will bring us into another not so hidden gem of Vancouver Island, the Pacific Rim National Park. Port Renfrew sits on the southern end of this park which extends north to include the communities of Ucleulet and Tofino. We are planning another visit in 2024.

See April 2023 blog: Vancouver Islands Wild Side

Day One dawned a beautiful sunny warm day as we headed for East Sooke Regional Park. The large park is maintained by the regional district and we found the trail standards excellent.  We hiked the Creyke Point and Beechey Head Loop just one of 63 hikes located in the park. This trail was well defined though the coastal trail has lots of roots and rocks making it tricky in places. 

The trail had lots of great ocean views with shaded walks through the rainforest but as we explored the trail we slowly became aware something was very wrong.  The rainforest was looking a little thirsty and very crispy.

According to the Victoria Colonist, rainfall in the first six months of 2023 was the third driest on record in the last 124 years. The summer rainfall was negligible with many of the Island watersheds placed on Level 4 restrictions. Then in late September just before our arrival, the western areas of the Island were placed on Level 5 which bans any outdoor use of water. This level means adverse impacts to socio-economic or ecosystem values are almost certain.  

Next stop was Sandcut Beach, one of the many popular beaches that can be found in Juan de Fuca Provincial Park. The beach is back dropped by interesting sandstone formations that have been eroded by wave action. Looking close you may be might see fossilized shells that have been exposed by the erosion. 

We were hiking to a cute waterfall located on the south end of the Beach that we had seen in pictures and best seen at low tide.  Sadly the falls were feeling the effects of the Level 5 drought. 

If you have been reading any of my previous blogs, you will find the word “drought” has come up a number of times. Drought conditions have become almost a permanent summer condition for the Okanagan. Summer forest fires are no longer referred to as IF but WHEN they will happen.

Global warming is a fact folks. Deniers get your heads of your asses. 

From Sawcut we made our way to Port Renfrew and spent an hour exploring the village, doing a little shopping for dinner before settling down at our cabin for the night. 

We have a busy day planned for tomorrow and things were about to change. 

Roadside Distractions

Faced with another 4,500 kilometre drive for the return to home I was looking for anything that would ease the hours of boredom that we would face and it was Wikipedia to the rescue.

 Roadside Attractions

 A roadside attraction is a feature along the side of a road meant to attract tourists. In general, these are places one might stop on the way to somewhere, rather than being a destination. They are frequently advertised with billboards. The modern tourist-oriented highway attraction originated as a U.S. and Canadian phenomenon in the 1940s to 1960s, and subsequently caught on in Australia.

 When long-distance road travel became practical and famous in the 1920s, entrepreneurs began building restaurants, motels, coffee shops, cafes, and unusual businesses to attract travelers. 

Photo: Tombestonetimes.com

Many of the buildings were attractions in themselves in the form of novelty architecture, depicting everyday objects of enormous size, typically relating to the items sold there. Some other types of roadside attractions include monuments and fictionalized-paranormal/illusionary amusements such as the Mystery Spot near Santa Cruz, California, or curiosities such as “The Thing” along Interstate 10 in Arizona.

Wikipedia

Roadside attractions have been a part of our travels for years.

Giant Lobster

Shediac, New Brunswick

We have for the most part not sought them out; they just sort of snuck up on us. 

Life-size Tyrannosaurus Rex 

Drumheller, Alberta. 

Some were easy to get to while others involved putting in a little effort.

 The Lunar Lander

Located on the slag fields created by the steel mills of Sudbury, Ontario. The fields were used by NASA as a lunar training ground for the Apollo 16 and 17 missions.  

But it is the ones Mother Nature created that most impressed. 

The Giant Sequoia Redwoods

Sequoia National Park, California

So with a little internet research, we discovered Canada has plenty of roadside attractions that could help us overcome the ennui that we were sure to face as we made the long journey home. 

Sometimes you need a little goose to keep the blood flowing. 

While not the biggest in the world it can claim to be the biggest in Canada.

Wawa, Ontario 

When things got a bit tiring, a little amoosement got us mooving.  

Moosejaw, Saskatchewan 

For a while the moose had lost its title as the worlds biggest to one in Norway but a new set of horns allowed him reclaim the title of the biggest in the world. 

On the road, sometimes you feel like you've "bean there, done that". 

Meet Pinto McBean, the worlds largest pinto bean.  Look out Mr. Potato Head. 

Bow Island, Alberta

It was our thirst for the open road that kept us going. 

That and lot of caffeine.

Worlds largest Coke can and refund deposit. 

Portage la Prairie, Manitoba 

Ontario as well as containing the most Canadians in Canada also has the most Loose Change in Canada and quite possibly the world but the world thing may require some additional research. 

The Big Nickel

Sudbury, Ontario

The "Largest" Loonie in Canada

Also claimed to be the largest Loonie in the world. Not hard to claim as I can find no other country who use currency named  Loonie.  Just us crazy Canadians. 

Echo Bay, Ontario

The Towering Toonie

Its actually named the Giant Toonie but I like alliteration. 

Campbellford, Ontario

Mile 3,339, Trans Canada Highway. 

Not an attraction but a stop dedicated to Terry Fox, the one legged athlete who had to end his courageous attempt to run across Canada raising funds for Cancer research on the nearby highway.   

The site is not the exact location but was chosen for its beautiful scenery.  There is a large highway sign as well. 

The Terry Fox Foundation has raised over $850,000,000 for cancer research. 

As you probably guessed by the appearance of this blog that we have made it home safe and sound thanks to those roadside attractions. Each day they were distraction from the boring drive as we looked forward to a seeing them along the way.  We did leave one attraction unvisited with a plan to use it as encouragement for a future road trip. 

The world's "Largest Pysanka".

Ukrainian Easter Egg

Vegreville, Alberta

Photo: vwww.pysanky.info/History

The Okie's and the Okie Nagans: Their Stories

The Okie Story: It began during the Great Depression and the Dust Bowl created by a drought that lasted from 1930 to 1936.  The drought extended over south-eastern Colorado, south-western Kansas, north-eastern New Mexico and the panhandles of Texas and Oklahoma.  Oklahoma was especially hard hit. 

Most farms were small with over 60% being tenant farmers. Years of poor crops saw many small owners losing their farms to foreclosure. For many, it was time to hit the road to greener pastures. They became known as the “Okies”.

Photo: NPR.com 

The Okie Nagan Story: It begins nearly a 100 years later in the severely drought stricken Okanagan Valley. The Great Smoke Bowl, created by wild fires easily started in the tinder dry forests surrounding the Valley.  

Picture: CTV News

We would become known to those we met along the way as the “Okie Nagans”

The “Okies” loaded their meagre belongings in their vehicles with goal of reaching a place that would welcome them. During this period, the San Joaquin valley in California drew over 70,000 migrants with many coming from Oklahoma.

Photo: featherbyfeather.com/tag/great-depression/

With tears in our eyes and burning lungs, the “Okie Nagans” packed their meagre belongings into a 2016 Toyota Prius with a dream of a smoke free visit with their grandchildren.

 

A recent move to a smaller place created the need to divest some of their meagre belongings. An historic family table entrusted to Nonie in the 70”s by her mom who had been given it by her mother had to go. It was now to be entrusted into the keep of a fourth generation great, great, great Granddaughter living in Ontario, making a drive necessary rather than our usual two flights. With only a scant ½ inch to spare, the table was carefully slid into the back of the Prius. As well as the table, an upright cane sewing basket was also loaded for delivery to a great, great, great, great granddaughter to be named at a later date. 

The “Okies” faced a long and arduous 1200 mile (1930 kms) journey to California and were met with indifference and hatred. It was the Dirty 30’s and many folks had little concern for the Okies plight. Arriving in California, they were often forced to work on large farms with low pay living in squatter’s camps under deplorable conditions.

 Photo: depts.washington.edu

For the “Okie Nagans”, it would also be a long and arduous trip.  A 10,800 kilometre (6,700 m) return journey fraught with seedy motels and dodgy roadside dining.  The outbound trip would take nine days with average distances travelled around 500 kilometres a day and driving times of 6 hours or more plus pee breaks in squalid Petro-Canada washrooms, coffee breaks and lunches at the nearest Tim Horton’s. 

Day 1 had us trading for the smoky skies of Blairmore Alberta.  Alberta was also struggling through a drought with accompanying fires. On the morning of Day 2 we paid a return visit to Fort McLeod giving us a short break from driving. We had enjoyed a visit there in the nineties. Nothing much had changed except for the entrance fee to visit the faux fort.   

Day 2, 3 and 4 saw us travelling through the dreaded prairies with our only wish to see just one fricking curve in the road. Terminal boredom was beginning to set in. 

 

To break up this monotony, we spent a day in the Grasslands National Park where we discovered that our annual national park pass had run out the week before. 

 Definition: grasslands- a large open area of country covered with grass”

The definition of “grasslands” pretty well describes Grasslands Provincial Park. It was a nice break from the car but not the boring prairie vistas which can only be described as flat.  The park is also home to an illusive herd of buffalos. Sadly some very old buffalo poop was as close as we came to seeing them but the prairie dogs were plentiful.

 

Somewhere near Winnipeg our GPS went horribly wrong and it became all Dutch to me.  

We entered Ontario on Day 5 and spent the next 4 1/2 days traveling through the Good, the Bad and the Ugly that is Ontario.

 The Good 

Lake Country  / Muskoka – “This region has some of Ontario’s most picturesque area’s with radiant lakes and rivers and an array of activities for all to enjoy year round. Whether you’re after an outdoor adventure on the waters or by bike, a relaxing getaway at a spa or eco-retreat, or fun for the whole family, you are sure to find it here.

 Lake Country Marketing Board

It took us almost three days to meander our way along the coast lines of Lake Huron and Superior. If you look on Google maps from the Manitoba border deep into the centre of Ontario and you will find thousands of lakes dotting the map.  

This is Ontario’s cottage country. Our first day, had us stopping every 10 minutes to admire and enjoy another pristine lake nestled in the rocks of the Canadian Shield. By day three we were still enjoying the lakes but at 120 kilometres and hour.  

Photo: https://viewthevibe.com/torontos-guide-to-ontarios-cottage-country/

Tip: Be aware that if you want to travel to these areas on weekends from April through September you will need to bring the “patience of Job” for the traffic can be brutal with Torontonians heading to their cottages.  If you are subject to bouts of “road rage”, know this, it is also hunting territory and that guy you are giving the finger too could be carrying a rifle. Thankfully it is Canada so it won’t be an assault rifle.

The Bad

Sadly Central Ontario was also suffering through drought conditions and we found ourselves surrounded by forest fires. The smoke was so thick one morning that it left us with terrible tastes in our mouths and a car covered in ash. Thankfully it cleared up as we got closer to the GTA (Greater Toronto Area) with a much healthier layer of smog replacing the smoke.  

 

The Ugly

CBC News: Toronto ranks 3rd most congested city in North America.

Toronto Star: Toronto gridlock is so bad even celebrities are saying it will ‘kill your soul’

 

Talk to anyone who lives in the Greater Toronto Area (GTA) about traffic, be prepared for a long conversation. Having lived in Toronto for a year, we can attest to the above headlines. The other two worse cities are Mexico City (1) and wait for it, Vancouver (2). 

Photo: mcleans.ca

One memorable trip to Ottawa on a long weekend saw us take 3 hours to travel in a rental car from downtown Toronto to the suburbs of Oshawa. It was a trip of just 60 kilometres, much of it on supposed freeways. The congestion was caused mostly by the cottagers escaping Toronto for their cottages in Lake Country, commuters returning home and me. Hey people, that same trip by Go Train is 55 minutes. 

Knowing what we know, I decided to take a longer route that would skirt the edge of GTA and avoid some of that world renowned congestion. Not to be, construction flag persons, congestion, and several car accident road closures made what should have been a pleasant five hour trip (380 kilometres) turn into a hair pulling (figure of speech as I have no hair) 8 ½ hour nightmare.

It was a truly frustrating end to our outbound trip. I was going to have to do some serious thinking about how were going to deal with our return to Penticton, another 4500 kilometres.