Tuesday, April 28, 2020

Living Virally- An Erupting Passion

Episode 2

January 28- BC Public Health Announcement: Case 1- A man in his 40s from the Vancouver Coastal Health region who recently travelled to Wuhan, the Chinese city at the centre of the COVID-19 outbreak. He has since recovered from the virus, meaning he is asymptomatic and was cleared by two consecutive tests performed 24 hours apart.                              cbc.ca/news – Time Line COVID 2013




We first heard the news of the coronavirus around the end of January. Based on our previous viral experience and future travel plans, our interest in this news item was definitely  heightened.   

Feb. 11, 2020 - COVID-19 named:  The World Health Organization announces the respiratory disease caused by the novel corona-virus has been named COVID-19. Officials say the name was chosen to avoid the stigma of associating the illness with any particular country and that other names could be inaccurate.  Number of test-confirmed cases in B.C.: 2
cbc.ca = Time Line COVID 2020





March 7, 2020- Care home outbreak: Two residents at the Lynn Valley Care Centre test positive for COVID-19. Provincial health officer Dr. Bonnie Henry says the care home is now considered to be the site of an outbreak. Henry begins recommending “social” or physical distancing as a way to slow the spread of the virus across the province.  Number of test-confirmed cases in B.C: 27
cbc.ca/news –Time Line COVID 2020

I was to attend the Vancouver Rugby 7’s tournament starting Friday March 6th. By March 2nd two cases had been identified in BC. There was some governmental discussion about whether or not to allow the tournament to proceed but not acted upon so the decision was made for me and off I went. By that Friday there were 27 cases confirmed in BC. I was joined by our son and 40,000 other fans for two days of cheering and beering. Canada won the bronze in a thrilling game against Spain. 



March 11, 2020- Pandemic declared: The World Health Organization declares the COVID-19 outbreak a pandemic. The province says the British Columbia Pandemic Provincial Co-ordination Plan is in motion, and focused on containing the corona-virus by breaking up transmission chains.  Number of test-confirmed cases in B.C: 45
cbc.ca/news – Time Line COVID 2020

Arriving home on Monday March 9th after flying through YVR, it seem prudent that I self isolate at home for the recommended 14 days. Little did I know that I would soon be joined by 1,000’s of other British Columbians and soon the entire country.

March 16, 2020 - Strict physical distancing: Many British Columbians begin the work week from home, following directives from public health officials to stay home if they are able. Physical distancing measures ramp up further as the gravity of the crisis sets in for many. Gatherings of more than 50 people are banned in B.C., including sporting events, meetings, conferences, concerts and religious gatherings. Any businesses that cannot avoid large groups of people, like restaurants, bars and casinos, are ordered to shut down. Many restaurants move to take-out service only. Visits to long-term care homes are restricted to essential visitors only. The total number of cases confirmed through testing surpasses 
100, rising to 103. 
cbc.ca/news – Time Line COVID 2020



About week 3 we started to feel like we were trapped in a very boring version of the game of Life. We decided to break free and go for a mild hike to the top of Giants Head Mountain. Giants Head sits about 500 metres above Okanagan Lake.

Photo: castanet.net 



Thankfully they have provided a parking lot mid way that reduces the trek to the summit to 300 metres up with a  2.5 kilometre long trail. The gluteal muscles got a good work out to reach the summit.

March 17, 2020- Public health emergency declared: Provincial health officer Dr. Bonnie Henry declares a public health emergency in B.C., giving herself power to make verbal orders to the public that are immediately enforceable. Henry confirms three more deaths related to COVID-19. She also confirms 83 new cases of the illness, the biggest spike in a single day to date. Classes are cancelled indefinitely for B.C. students in kindergarten through Grade 12. The majority of the province’s 550,000 students are already home on March Break. Officials begin looking at new methods for electronic or online learning. 
Nationally, the prime minister delivers a stern message for Canadians still abroad: “It’s time to come home.”  Number of test-confirmed cases in B.C.: 186.
cbc.ca – Time Line COVID 2020







From the top we were rewarded with a 360 degree view of the Okanagan Valley along with a chilly south wind. 





As we descended back to the parking lot, we found snow still present on the shadier side of the mountain making the trail a bit slippery. Despite the snow, spring could be found making a valiant attempt to assert itself into the landscape.   



March 21, 2020- Businesses shut down:  The B.C. Ministry of Health orders personal service businesses, such as barber shops, hair salons, nail parlours and tattoo shops, to shut down immediately.  The province also releases details on the epidemiology of the virus in B.C. (Epidemiology analyses “the who, what, where and when of disease outbreaks” to better understand and fight them.) This confirms most initial cases in B.C. were travel related. Roughly 55 per cent of all cases are female, with many linked to the outbreaks at long-term care homes. Health Minister Adrian Dix says the provincial testing strategy has evolved to focus on clustered outbreaks, hospitalized patients and frontline health-care workers. Number of test-confirmed cases in B.C.: 424
cbc.ca – Time Line COVID 2020

Giants Head is the result of a massive volcanic dome.  Volcanoes have formed an important part of many of our adventures. In the past 20 years we have climbed on, around and into a number of volcanoes around the world.



Mt. Vesuvius and Pompeii, Italy. Our first experience with volcanoes. The day we visited, the temperature reached 41 degrees. Which seemed very reasonable for a volcanic area.








Rano Kau, Easter Island. We visited Easter Island as part of a trip to Chile and Argentina. We were able to spend a few hours hiking around Rano Kau's crater rim.









That is when we weren't being stalked by those nosy Moai statues found below the volcanic dome of Ranu Raraku

March 26, 2020- Mandatory quarantine for travelers: Due to the increasing number of outbreaks at long-term care homes in B.C., Dr. Henry issues an order to stop staff from working in multiple facilities at once in an effort to slow the spread of the virus between centres. The federal government imposes strict, mandatory quarantine rules on travelers returning to Canada and promises heavy fines and jail time for those who ignore the warning. Number of test-confirmed cases in B.C.: 725
cbc.ca – Time Line COVID 2020





Villarica Volcano, Pucon, Chile. Villarica is one of Chile's most active volcanoes.  We came to Pucon with the single desire to climb the volcano. Weather on the mountain can be very hazardous so any hiking must be done on clear days. We arrived to rain and it rained on and off for the next two days. But luck was with us on our last day and we woke to clear blue skies. Game on. 

photo: en.wikipedia.org/

Villarica tops out at just less than 3,000 metres but were able to avoid the first 1,000 metres as we were driven up to a parking lot that once served an abandoned ski hill. They have tried to keep the chair lift running as this would knock off a bit more elevation for us tourists but not in service today.  First part of the trip was over a loose volcanic screed with the last section covered in an icy snow making crampons and ice axes necessary.

We were joined by a group of 20 somethings who when they saw how old we were, were quite concerned whether we had the right stuff to make the climb. Well lets just say we weren't the ones whining 1/2 way up the mountain. They were so impressed that they invited us to join them that evening and take a taxi up into the mountains to a remote set of hot springs to soak our weary legs and sip on some lovely Chilean reds. 




March 27, 2020- Modelling revealed: Health officials confirm two more deaths in the Vancouver Coastal Health region, bringing the provincial total to 16. Cases are also confirmed at two more care homes in the Lower Mainland, bringing the total of facilities affected to 11. The province unveils modelling used to help officials track the trajectory of the outbreak in B.C. and prepare for possible scenarios that will strain the health-care system. The data suggests physical distancing; travel restrictions and other measures have helped slow the spread of the virus by as much as half. Number of test-confirmed cases in B.C.: 792
cbc.ca _ Time Line COVID 2020



The trek was a grind and we reached the caldera with shaky knees. Some of the shaking may have been due to the fact we were standing on a hard lava plug inside the caldera. Every few minutes the vent would rumble and spit out a cloud of soft fluffy ash the size of  tea plates that would then gently flutter to the ground. The volcano had only been reopened a few months after its last eruption.  (It erupted again in 2018) Looking into the vent you could see the red glow of the molten lava. Thus was our molten passion for volcanoes erupted.




Mauna Kea, Big Island, Hawaii. From our condo, Mauna Kea's elevation is 4,207 metres. Mauna Kea, a dormant volcano is the highest point in the state of Hawaii. It hasn't seen an eruption since 2600 BC and is believed to be over a 1,000,000,000 years old. Due to its dormancy, elevation, dry atmosphere and lack of man made illumination, it has become home to 13 telescopic arrays. Most of Mauna Kea is under water so its actual height is closer to 10,000 metres from ocean floor to the summit. 



My desire for the trip up Mauna Kea was to lay claim to having made and thrown a snowball in Hawaii. Mission accomplished.  It was more of an ice ball. Sorry Nonie. 









Kilauea Iki Crater, Big Island, Hawaii. Kilauea is home to Pele, the goddess of fire and the name of our pet cat. The Kilauea volcano is still active, with the most recent eruption in 2018.








March 28, 2020- Fatalities rise:  Another death is confirmed in the Vancouver Coastal Health region, raising the provincial total to 17.  Health officials also confirm another case at a new long-term care home in the Fraser Health region. There are now 12 residential facilities affected by outbreaks.  Number of test-confirmed cases in B.C.: 884. 
cbc.ca – Time Line COVID 2020








We hiked the 12 kilometre Kilauea Iki Crater trail. The hike takes you along the rim of the crater then down into the caldera. There is almost no vegetation growing in the caldera and you find yourself suddenly going prehistoric. It felt like you had been transported back to what the world looked like when dinosaurs roamed.










At any minute we were sure one would come roaring out  from behind the curtains of steam escaping from the vents that dotted the landscape, their fearsome jaws ready to rip us into bloody shreds.





Napau Crater, Big Island, Hawaii. This crater is part of the Kilauea complex of craters. The trail will lead you to the closest view of  the Pu U Oo volcano that was and is currently increasing the size of the Big Island as it pukes lava into the Pacific Ocean. It is estimated the this volcano has added over 500 more acres to the Big Island while at the same time burying over 40 square miles of existing Island in fresh coat of  lava.



March 31, 2020- 1,000 cases:  B.C. surpasses 1,000 cases of COVID-19, with a total of 1,013. Health officials confirm five more deaths, bringing the total number of fatalities to 24. Dr. Henry confirms there are now outbreaks at 19 long-term care and assisted living homes in the Lower Mainland.  Officials stress there is "zero" chance that physical distancing orders will be lifted before May. On a positive note, Henry says more than half of B.C.’s total case count — 507 patients — have recovered from COVID-19.
cbc.ca – Time Line COVID 2020

Most of the time, Pu U Oo's lava travels through  tubes formed by hardening lava and were not visible to us till it spewed out into the Pacific. Especially beautiful at night. On occasion the volcano will become more active and increase its lava production. This extra lava will break out onto the surface. The latest eruption was in 2018 with lava flows causing $800 million in damage destroying  houses and roads. 



The hike is an 19 kilometre out and back trek starting on a massive lava field. Lava fields are usually bare of  any vegetation. Every once in a while we would come upon small islands of vegetation missed by the lava flow. These are called kipukas. We came upon one kipuka  that contained a strip of paved road. From the lava fields we moved  into dense rain forest. We passed several small craters but forest was so thick that they could not be seen from the trail despite being only a few metres away.  



The trip was worth it as we were rewarded with a clear view of a smoking Pu U O o. There was a trail crossing Napau crater that would get you in for a closer look at the crater but access is forbidden as there is the extreme danger of running into hydrogen sulfide gas which can cause serious lung injury and death. That and you never know when it might erupt again. Even from the look out, we could smell rotten eggs as the wind shifted in our direction. 




April 1, 2020- Recoveries:  Officials say 1,066 people in B.C. have had confirmed infections with the novel coronavirus. Twenty-five people have died, while more than half of all confirmed patients — 606 in total — have fully recovered.  Number of test-confirmed cases in B.C.: 1,066
cbc.ca – Time Line COVID 2020



Pu U Oo Volcano, Big Island, Hawaii.  After the hike, there was no way we were leaving Hawaii without getting a closer look at Pu U Oo.



Photo:  usgs.gov 




So we signed up for the expensive “Feel the Heat” helicopter tour out of Hilo airport. Feeling the heat is accomplished by taking the doors off the helicopter. Supposedly this will allow us to feel the heat as we soar over  Pu U Oo's caldera. .

Missed the small print that said that Pu U Oo was on most days shrouded in mist and fog and getting near it was not allowed if covered in cloud.  Luck was with us as it cleared for a few minutes allowing us a foggy peak at the crater.


More missed small print, we aren't actually able to fly over the crater due to the above mentioned hydrogen sulfide gases emitted by the volcano. We flew out to the ocean where we watched the lava boil out an into the ocean. 

Not a lot of heat but it was still a really cool adventure.






April 8, 2020- Self-isolation plans:  The government of B.C. announces it is now mandatory for returning travellers to have an approved self-isolation plan upon arrival. Those who don't will not be allowed home until they do. All provincial parks in B.C. are also closed to deter travellers during Easter weekend.
Number of test-confirmed cases in B.C.: 1,336
Cbc.ca _ Time Line COVID 200

Mount Ngauruhoe (Mount Doom), Tongariro National Park, North Island, New Zealand. I am not really a Lord of the Rings Geek but when given the chance to see Mount Doom up close, how could I say no. Mount Ngauruhoe first erupted about 2500 years ago and the most recent was in 1977.  Climbing  the volcano is verboten as it is considered sacred to the local Maori's.  A number of Ring scenes were done at the base.

See blog “To Quest or Not to Quest, That is the QUESTion” February 2019



Lake Taupo, North Island, New Zealand. The lake is actually the caldera of the super volcano Taupo. The lake is over 600 square kilometres so it must have been one hell of an eruption.


See blog “Life is a Barrel of Dwarfs" February 2019

Mount Maunganui, Tauranga, North Island, New Zealand. Mount Maunganui is a 230 metre high lava dome located just off downtown Tauranga. The temperature was in the high 30's C with 50 percent humidity the day we climbed to the top. Discovered New Zealand beer that afternoon. 

See blog “Plenty to Sea and Do" February 2019

I fully expect that volcanoes will continue to be a part of our future adventures. We are hooked. 

Sunday, April 19, 2020

Living Virally- It Ain't My First Quarantine - Part 2

Living Virally, Episode 1, Part 2


Escaping from Beijing, my allergy symptoms were apparent but mild. Getting off the plane in Seoul, we had to walk through a mine field of thermal imagers looking for anyone with a fever. With no fever and my allergy symptoms having somewhat abated during the flight, we cleared customs with out any problems.

April 2, 2003: China reports 361 new cases of SARS for the month of March; the total number of cases in Guangdong province rises to 1,153.
Npr.com - Time Line SARS 2003


Met by our son we were loaded onto a bus for Pyeongtaek, the city he was working in and about an hours drive south of Seoul. Spring was in full bloom here. Every tree and bush seemed to be in flower. Minutes after getting off the bus in Pyeongtaek my allergies started to reintroduce themselves with a vengeance.






By our second day in Korea, my symptoms had bloomed.  When ever we went outside, my runny nose got runnier, my eyes started to continuously emit a gritty gunk, the sneezes got louder and more frequent while my coughs more phlegmy. My memories of our time in Korea are a bit fuzzy due to my allergies but also I believe in some part due to the Korean version of allergy medicines as “No doze” medicine was not an option. What I do remember is seeing lots of lots of temples.





I mean lots of temples.


April 4, 2003: WHO officials report a total of 2,353 probable SARS cases, 84 of them fatal, in 16 countries.
 npr.com - Time Line SARS 2003














On one fuzzy trip, we visited the folk village of Yongin.  I remember that it seemed to be populated with living historical characters. Perhaps it was the allergy medicine talking.


I vaguely remember Nonie and me taking an over-night holiday packed train to the coastal city of Gyeongju.  Gyeongju was home to the Silla Dynasty. They ruled most of the Korean peninsula for 1,000 years, from 95 BC to 935 AD. 




 Arriving at the 5:00 AM we killed (no pun intended) a few hours and catching some zzzz’s in a park containing the burial mounds of a number Silla kings and their family.  The city and surrounding areas are littered with these mounds.





April 4: The number of suspected U.S. SARS cases was 115; reported from 29 states. There were no deaths among these suspect cases of SARS in the United States.
npr.com – Time Line SARS 2003



Near Gyeongju, is the temple of Bulguska with a small but famous statue of Buddha tucked neatly into a small grotto.  We arrived during a holiday weekend so the place was packed. As there was a 4 kilometre walk into the grotto, shuttle buses were provided but with about a 2 hour wait, we hoofed it in beating the shuttle bus by 10 minutes.










There was a larger Buddha on the grounds that I think winked at me. Again, perhaps a side affect of the allergy medicine.



April 6, 2003: Canadian health officials report the number of suspected and probable SARS cases in that nation has surpassed 130, including nine deaths.
npr.com – Time Line SARS 2003









Nonie spent a day with our son visiting the Gyeongbok Palace, just north of downtown Seoul and a short ballistic missile shot from the North Korean Border. Located in a huge park full of green stuff, I opted to stay home and rest my nasal passages.  






We spent our last few days in Korea exploring Seoul and shopping.  With less greenery in the City, my symptoms started to lessen their grip. We did spend quite a few hours in giant climate controlled malls which may have also helped.



Leaving Seoul, we again had to tiptoe through a field of thermal scanners at the airport to ensure that anyone with a temperature was not getting into the airport or onto a plane.  During the flight, we were informed that upon landing in Vancouver, we would be interviewed and our temperatures taken.  Anyone exhibiting symptoms could be quarantined.

Photo: The Straight Times



We arrived into YVR at around 6:00 AM with a small expectation that I might be quarantined. As we exited the plane and were being herded to the departure area we passed through several unmanned thermal scanners with empty tables and chairs and SARS signage. It seems that the SARS checkpoint didn't open till 8 AM.  

Table 1. Number of passengers detected with an elevated temperature by thermal image scanner and suspected of SARS, Vancouver International and Pearson Airports, May to November 2003
Airport
Pearson
Vancouver
Total
No. of passengers scanned
3,920,407
649,352
4,569,759
No. of passengers with an elevated
temperature by scanner
1,365 (0.035%)
70 (0.011%)
1,435 (0.031%)
No. of passengers with SARS
0
0
0
https://www.canada.ca/en/public-health/services/reports-publications/canada-communicable-disease-report-ccdr/monthly-issue/2004-30/thermal-image-scanners-detect-fever-airline-passengers-vancouver-toronto-2003.html

We were met at the airport by Nonie’s mom. No hugs or kisses, we kept our distance till she dropped us off at Nonie’s sister home where we had stored our car. No stopping there, we jumped in the car and drove straight home with just a stop for gas and a pee.

April 14: Researchers in Canada announce they sequenced the genome for the coronavirus suspected to cause SARS.
cnn.com – Time Line SARS 2003

Spring was in full bloom at home when we arrived and while mild my symptoms continued but now with the addition of a low grade fever. This elicited a call to the local public health clinic for some advice. An hour later a fully gowned public health nurse showed up at our door. After a short interview, she said she would get back to us but that for the time being we would need to stay home.

She left us with a handful of surgical masks that Nonie and I were to wear while we were in the same room with each other. A few hours later she called and had arranged a visit to my GP for a full check-up. I was to go to her office at the end of the day when their were no longer any patients around. I was to make sure  to wear a mask at all times. Arriving, I was met outside by the receptionist who asked me to wait in my car as there were still patients inside.  Once inside I was greeted by my GP fully gowned and masked. I received a full check up then she made a call to Public Health to discuss her findings. 




I was told to go to the hospital for a chest x-ray. Arriving at the front entrance, I was met by two security guards who recognized me as the possible SARS case by the surgical mask on my face. They escorted me through the hospital corridors to x-ray, clearing people out of the way as we moved along.  I was again met by a technician fully gowned and masked. I felt so special. X-ray complete, I was escorted off the premises.


My 15 minutes of fame was fleeting. Three days later we received a call to say that I was not suffering from SARS and we could resume our daily lives. Despite my clean bill of health, work was not much interested in seeing me for the next week, so we enjoyed an extended stay-cation. 

April 29, 2003: The WHO removes its warning against all but essential travel to Toronto. Travel advisories remain in effect for Hong Kong, Beijing and two provinces in China.

May 29, 2003: Toronto reports a second outbreak.

July 2003: WHO officials consider the SARS threat under control and lift all travel advisories. To date, 8,099 people in 32 countries have been infected, with 744 of those cases fatal. No new cases have been reported since July.
npr.com – Time Line SARS 2003

Monday, April 13, 2020

Living Virally- It Ain't My First Quarantine - Part 1


Living Virally, Episode 1, Part 1

It was the last few weeks of February, 2020  and reports of a new virus currently raging in Wuhan Province, China were making their way back to the rest of the World. As I had some travel plans coming up,  I was off to Vancouver at the beginning of March for a rugby tournament with 40,000 other guests and at the beginning of April, Nonie and I were  off to the US to catch up with some friends and end with a cruise through the Panama Canal.  The news triggered a “been there, done that” moment. 



It was February 2003 and the Cornell’s were in the midst of preparing for a new adventure. Our youngest son freshly graduated from university had packed up and moved to Korea with a friend to teach English for a year. It was a perfect excuse to plan our first excursion to the Far East starting in Hong Kong and ending in Korea.  

Feb. 10, 2003: An online service that tracks emerging infectious diseases posts a report of the mysterious pneumonia-like illness in China. Chinese health officials say the outbreak is under control.
npr.com -Time Line SARS 2003



Departing March 15, 2003 we arrived in Hong Kong unaware that it had become the world's epicenter for a new and dangerous virus which would became known as SARS (Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome).


Arriving in Hong Kong and unable to read or understand Chinese, we remained blessedly unaware of what was occurring while we explored Hong Kong with abandon.






Ours first day had us climbing  to the top of Victoria Peak then hiking down the back side before hiking over to Victoria Harbour.

March 13, 2003: An American suffering from breathing troubles dies in Hong Kong after being transferred from a Hanoi hospital. Soon after, health workers in both hospitals develop similar symptoms. 
npr.com - Time Line SARS 2003



While we wore silly  sampan hats cruising around Victoria Harbour, we did notice that most inhabitants including our cruise director were all wearing masks, We assumed it was because of the smog that perpetually enveloped Hong Kong. 


Our next stop was the city of Guilin.  We had a day to explore this small city of 3.5 million. The smog was minimal here compared to Hong Kong so masks were not as prevalent. No signs of panic or concern.  We did notice that where ever we went, we tended to attract a crowd.  Not a lot of Western tourists currently visiting Guilin. 

March 15: CDC issues first health alert and hosts media telebriefing about an atypical pneumonia that has been named Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome (SARS). CDC issues interim guidelines for state and local health departments on SARS. CDC issues a “Health Alert Notice” for travelers to the United States from Hong Kong, Guangdong Province (China).
cdc.gov - Time Line SARS 2003
The next day we were up early to catch a local bus to Yangshuo. On the bus we made friends with a group of young kids, all employed at the same hotel in Guilin and traveling to Yangshuo for a holiday weekend. They were thrilled to have someone to  practice their English on and kept us busy for the 2 ½ hour drive to Yangshuo. 

Arriving, they invited us to a lunch at a local restaurant where the sign  stated that it served fish, beef, chicken, snakes and rat. 

Much discussion over what to order, rat, snake or fish.  Just kidding, fish was the only choice considered. Leaving the women at the table, the boys wandered into the back of the restaurant to find dozens of plastic buckets, each holding a live fish. After much back and forth the boys chose a nice frisky one  caught the day before from the Li River which flows past Yangshuo. 




Yangshuo is home to the most beautiful karst landscape and attracts thousands of Chinese and foreign tourists each year.   

March 17, 2003: Canadian health officials report 11 cases of SARS in Toronto, British Columbia and Alberta.
npr.com - Time Line SARS 2003

Photo- wikivoyage.com






Karst is a general term for surface and underground morphology formed by the dissolution of soluble rocks (mostly limestone) by water or so says Wikipedia.  However it occurs, it is very beautiful.




Renting bikes the next day, we rode out into the countryside to get a closer look at the stunning limestone hills that dotted the landscape. Our goal was to find and hike up Moon Hill.

March 20: CDC issues infection control precautions for aerosol-generating procedures on patients who are suspected of having SARS.
cdc.gov – Time Line SARS 2003
Moon Hill achieved its name by the semi-circular hole that has been carved through the apex of the hill by the wind and rain. We were followed all the way up and down the hill by an older Vietnamese women carrying water for sale. She wore a hat with giant brim that she would rip off her head every time we stopped and use it as a fan to cool us down. She spoke some French so we were able to communicate with her. We tipped her big time.



Each night. at every restaurant we would be greeted by this gritty little 3 foot grandmother who wandered the town selling oranges to tourists. She was a hard nosed salesman who would not take no for an answer. She sold them in lots of 6, not two, not four just six. Her price was as firm as the wrinkles on her face. She would loudly count them out on to the table, yi, er, san, xi, wu, liu before collecting her money. As a repeat customer, she granted me this picture, but just one.

Our last night, as we enjoyed our after dinner oranges we were approached by four young Chinese girls. They explained that they worked for a new hotel and had been tasked with translating the hotel menu into English and could we proof read their work. Always wary of scams we tentatively agreed. It was our first introduction to Chinglish. For the next 2 hours we laughed and joked and translated the menu with the help of a young American/Chinese couple from Hong Kong seated next to us.  We did learn that tofu translates to bean curd which greatly assisted our future meal orders. 

March 24, 2003: Health officials in Singapore quarantine hundreds of people possibly exposed to SARS.

npr.com - Time Line SARS 2003
Photo: www.english.com


We did struggle on one translation; “large fruit with thick skin”. We guessed it might be a pomelo, similar to a grapefruit.  Done, the girls invited us to their dormitory and try a  “large fruit with thick skin”. They lived in a large dormitory building located on the edge of Yangshuo. The place was filled with hundreds of young Chinese who worked at the various hotels and restaurants. In the room that they shared with 4 others, we tasted our first "large fruit with thick skin".  

Yangshuo was a wonderful introduction to rural China. It was here, we developed our first thoughts of following in our son’s footsteps and becoming English teachers, perhaps in China. Sadly, today's Yangshuo is not the same place that it was in 2003. I wonder if they offer McRat or  McSnake on the menu.

Photo: Kingston Images





Our next stop was Xi’an, a small Chinese city of 12,000,000 known as the ancient terminus for the Silk Road. It is claimed to have a history that extends over 6,000 years and was home to 13 dynasties. 


March 24: CDC laboratory analysis suggests a new coronavirus may be the cause of SARS. In the United States, 39 suspect cases (to date) had been identified. Of those cases, 32 of 39 had traveled to countries were SARS was reported.
cdc.gov – Time Line SARS 2003




The first of our two planned visits in Xi’an was the Great Mosque. During the Tang Dynasty, Islam was brought to Xi’an by Arabian merchants traveling the Silk Road. The site that the mosque sits on has been home to different religious complexes since the 8th Century while this mosque has been around since the 14th Century. Wikipedia.


Our last stop was the funerary of Qin Shi Huang, the first Emperor of China.  We were the only non-Chinese tourists aboard with only the guide speaking English. We fast became the talk of the bus. Lots of smiles and nihaos. We sat behind two small children, who previously had been the talk of the bus. With the "one child rule" in full affect, it was uncommon to meet two siblings from the same family, especially twins. . 
The site is better known to Westerners as the home of the Terracotta Soldiers. A collection of warrior sculptures that depict the armies of Qui Shi Huang and constructed for the purpose of protecting him in the afterlife. The figures date back to the early 3rd Century. What we can see is only a small part of the tomb which according to ground penetrating radar extends over 98 sq.kms. It is estimated that the entire  tomb contains more than 8,000 soldiers, 130 chariots over 670 horses. 





I bought a large 36” terracotta “official” from the museum and had it shipped home. My plan is to have him join me in the afterlife to deal with any relocation problems that may occur. You know paperwork and such


March 27: CDC issues interim domestic guidelines for management of exposures to SARS for healthcare and other institutional settings.
cdc.gov – Time Line SARS 2003







The statures were discovered in 1974 by three farmers who were digging a well. The farmers became instantly famous and on the day we visited, one of the farmers was in attendance. We had purchased a commemorative book celebrating he 20th anniversary of their discovery and were lucky enough to have him sign it. Back on board the bus, through our guide we told everyone the story of getting the farmers autograph. Everyone was very impressed. On the spur of the moment we asked everyone on the bus including the bus driver to also sign the book. Once again, we were the talk of the bus all the way back to Xi’an. 






March 27, 2003: Officials in Hong Kong quarantine more than 1,000 people and close schools. Singapore also closes its schools. Researchers at the University of Hong Kong report they have evidence SARS is a corona-virus. WHO requests that airlines screen passengers for SARS on flights leaving from Hong Kong, Singapore, Hanoi, Toronto and parts of China. 
npr.com - Time line SARS 2003

Arriving at the airport in Xi’an for our flight to Beijing, we were greeted by security guards armed with thermal imagers checking each person’s temperature before being allowed into the terminal. Entering the security area for the departure gates, we were once again scanned and a final time before we were allowed to board the plane. This was our first real inkling that something was up, thankfully it was not our basal body temperatures. 

We were booked into a Days Inn, one of the many international hotel chains that were opening up in Beijing. It was located in a small hutong (alley) only a few blocks from Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden Palace. . As one of the first western guests to use the hotel and they were interested in our feedback.  Be prepared for hard beds in China. If I was to describe their comfort level, plywood would come to mind. We mentioned this and before too long, maids showed up and laid down three extra futons to soften our mattress.



March 28, 2003: Chinese officials report a ten-fold increase in the number of SARS-related deaths in Guangdong province; 10 new cases surface in Beijing.
npr.com - Time Line SARS 2003

Our first adventure of the day, a climb up the hill in Jingshan Park . We were told it would provide a fabulous view over the Forbidden City and Beijing. It was here we were introduced to the famous Beijing smog. Face masks were being worn by most Chinese. Along the way we ran into Horiki, a young Japanese student on a gap year, backpacking around China. We first met him, while driving from the airport into Xi’an and again later at the Great Mosque.


Horiki joined us for the day. While he did not speak Chinese, he had studied Japanese hieroglyphics which are very close to the Chinese characters so he was able to read the informational signs in the Forbidden Palace. The signage in the Palace had little or no English descriptions so he was able to provide valuable information into what  we were looking at.






March 29, 2003: Dr. Carlo Urbani, the doctor who first identified SARS, dies of the illness in Thailand. Health officials in Ontario, Canada, report around 100 probable SARS cases in the province.
npr.com – Time Line SARS 2003


We finished the evening in Tiananmen Square watching the changing of the guard at Mao’s Tomb. We talked to Horiki about the Tiananmen Square protests and massacre. While it had happened only 14 years previously, Horiki had never heard of it. But I guess when you are only 20 years old, 14 years is an eternity ago.  

Day 2 and we were off to the summer palace. This gave us a chance to ride the new Beijing subway that had been built to impress the IOC to award Beijing with the Summer Olympics.


The Summer Palace in some form or other has existed on this site since the 12th Century. The site is made up of 4 lakes, gardens and palaces covering an area of 2.9 kilometres. 

The main lake, Kunming takes up 2.2 square kilometres and was entirely man made with the excavated dirt used to create a large dirt mound called Longevity Hill.  


March 29: CDC extended its travel advisory for SARS to include all of mainland China and added Singapore. CDC quarantine staff began meeting planes, cargo ships and cruise ships coming either directly or indirectly to the United States from China, Singapore and Vietnam and also begins distributing health alert cards to travelers.
cdc.gov – Time Line SARS 2003



Day 3, found us searching the back streets of Beijing. Using information from an old copy of Lonely Planet that told us to go to a specific street location where we could find Chinese tour buses that made trips to the Great Wall. We found a dozen small 20 passenger buses lined up on the street waiting for customers. We went from bus to bus till we found someone who could speak English. About the fourth bus we found a guide with basic English, at least enough to bargain for a fare. Entering the bus we found it almost full, with seats only at the back of the bus. Here we found a young French Canadian man clutching an old copy of the Lonely Planet.








April 1, 2003: The U.S. State Department authorizes all non-essential employees and their families to leave the province of Guangdong. Hong Kong health officials say the city now has nearly 700 SARS cases. WHO advises travelers to stay away from Hong Kong and China. In Canada, the death toll from SARS reaches six.
Npr.com – Time Line SARS 2003

Chinese tours are not as expensive as ones arranged for foreigners. But they include stops not advertised. Stops at a jade museum (store), a traditional Chinese medicine clinic and an amusement park. At the jade factory, we discovered that most of the jade was sourced from British Columbia. We quickly made our way through gift shop to wait outside. We were approached by the guide to ensure that we really did not want to buy any jade. She left us alone when we explained that the jade came from our home. We have been told that the guides get a small kickback for all sales.


Next stop, the clinic where we were greeted by young girls dressed in white scrubs We were quickly moved to the front of the line to meet the Doctors. They were older men dressed in a pristine white gowns with a stethoscopes hanging around their neck. The doctor (?) first listened to my heart then took my hands and placed his thumbs over my wrists while he stared into  my eyes for what seemed like forever. Through his assistant, he asked three questions. Did I have to get up during the night to urinate? Did I suffer from stomach gas?  Did my joints ache?  I answered yes to all. He pulled out his prescription pad and wrote down 4 items which he explained would help me deal with my problems and at only a cost of 190 RMB ($40) At this point I thanked him for his diagnosis but said no thanks after which I found myself being quickly ejected from the hall into the arms of our guide, who was becoming a little surly with us.

After lunch, we were on our way to the Wall. Arriving to the small town of Badaling, we were directed to a rickety old toboggan ride that would haul us up to the top of the Wall on steel tracks and when done we would take the toboggan and ride back down. The toboggan consisted of a plastic bucket seat on a steel sled with a bar stuck between your legs which I guessed was the brake. All this for the small price of 24 RMB. ($5 CAD) We got into a pissing match with the guide as we insisted she show us where the stairs were so we could walk ourselves up on to the wall as we did not want to take the ride. After some heated conversation she first made sure all her other customers were signed up for the toboggan and then begrudgingly led us to the stairs. We have pretty well lost our cool factor her  and she was starting to regret her decision to let us join her tour.

From the wall, we were driven to a cheesy amusement park just outside of Beijing. Entry fee was 45 RMB per person. We made our guides day when we told her that we would not be entering but would wait outside with the bus. Seems our attitude was starting to rub off on the bus as quite a few others decided to join us and wait outside. The ride back to Beijing was down right chilly. The deal was we were to be driven back to our original location but she kicked off the bus at the first stop. A little lost, we jumped into a cab for a ride back to the hotel.








April 2, 2003: China reports 361 new cases of SARS for the month of March; the total number of cases in Guangdong province rises to 1,153.
npr.com - Time Line SARS 2003

Once we arrived in Beijing, were able to get into our emails as well as obtain  copy of USA Today. This was providing us with a better understanding of what was occurring around SARS although the Chinese were still not providing the entire truth of what was happening.   I  received an email from my boss informing that I was not to come to work for another two weeks upon returning to Penticton.

Spring was starting to blossom in Beijing and along with that so was my seasonal allergies. Eyes weeping, nose running and a sore throat. Symptoms that mirrored those of SARS.

Time to move on to South Korea and Part 2.